The Complete Red Zebra Cichlid Care Guide

Red Zebra Cichlid

Thanks to its bright colors and exuberant display, the Red Zebra Cichlid is one the most sought-after fish species. 

It moves gracefully around the tank, with its slender body and long fins, further adding to its visual appeal. No wonder aquarists are looking to own several of these small fish to make their aquarium unique. 

However, despite their size, these fish are aggressive and need a lot of attention to living a healthy life. Therefore, we’ve decided to provide a Red Zebra Cichlid care guide for your benefit so that you’re aware of the task at hand. 

Typical Behavior

Like most African Cichlids, the Red Zebra variant is no different, known for its semi-aggressive nature. If you desire to keep docile and sociable fish in the tank, it would be best to avoid owning this species. Or you’ll need to place them in a separate tank.

While some fish are aggressive only during the mating season, Red Zebra Cichlid shows no lessening their ferocious behavior. Both the male and female fish have similar behavioral traits, so research before introducing them into home aquariums.

Are Red Zebra Cichlids Aggressive?

Red Zebra Cichlids are highly aggressive on account of their territorial nature. They react violently towards other species as well as their own, meaning they are not friendly.

Moreover, Red Zebra Cichlids have a matriarchal family, so the female is hard to befriend, especially when she is about to lay eggs. You can find them prowling around the tank, protecting their territory.

How Long Do Red Zebra Cichlids Live? 

Depending upon the tank conditions, feeding habits, and how many fish you’re keeping in the aquarium, Red Zebra Cichlids can live up to a decade. However, in some cases, they may live shorter lives of 5 years, so their lifespan usually varies between five and ten years.

Another essential factor is to provide the right water conditions, as these fish are highly sensitive. Speaking of conditions, let’s discuss that next.

Natural Habitat And Tank Conditions

These fish are at home in the rocky waters of Lake Malawi in Africa, dotted with caves, so that they have enough room to hide. Like other Cichlids, they search for food on the lake’s sandy surface and in crevasses, scooping up tiny meals.

As they are at home in a rocky environment with no vegetation, you need not add plants to the tank. Red Zebra Cichlids are nibblers and tend to uproot plants, artificial or real, and may not do well in unfamiliar habitats.

Moreover, it’s essential to maintain the water conditions between 7.8 and 8.6 pH by adding an appropriate sandy substrate.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

They don’t grow bigger than five inches, meaning these fish don’t need a lot of space. However, it would help if you kept them in a 50-gallon tank at the very least to account for their territorial behavior.

Usually, a 50-gallon tank will hold around 208 liters of water, ensuring that there’s enough room for the fish to swim around. Also, don’t keep too many fish in one tank, as it may stress them out and promote violent behavior.


Just like other African Cichlids, Red Zebra Cichlids are extremely attractive and change colors throughout their lives. That’s why they have different names based on their appearance.

They are primarily yellow but may also develop a blue or red coat in the wild. However, they don’t have stripes on their body, so the solid coloration makes them stand apart in the tank.

Now, some varieties may have a thicker body, accompanied by a slightly larger forehead and a long tail fin. Moreover, both the anal and dorsal fins are elongated and have yellow egg spots.

Red Zebra Cichlid Male Vs. Female

Although there’s not much difference between male and female Red Zebra Cichlids, there are a few stand-out features. For example, the male fish has larger egg spots than the female, assuming bright red colors in the wild.

Also, males are more territorial and aggressive towards other fish.

How Big Do Red Zebra Cichlids Get? 

Red Zebra Cichlids are small fish that don’t grow bigger than 5 inches. In the wild, these fish are even smaller and reach a maximum length of 4 inches.

That said, you should get a 50-gallon aquarium to house them, ensuring that they can go about their daily activities without any difficulty.

Foods And Feeding

Red Zebra Cichlids are omnivores and feed on both meat and plants as part of their diet. As mentioned, they like to graze among rocks and crevasses and will dig up the sandy floor in search of tasty morsels.

In the wild, they feed on algae, zooplankton, and benthic invertebrates. So, you can infuse their diet with small amounts of vitamins and proteins to keep them healthy.

Now, don’t provide them with one large morsel because they gain weight very quickly. Red Zebra Cichlids can devour a meal in under three minutes, and before you know it, they will be overweight.

Hence, aquarists should offer them several smaller meals throughout the day, which will also keep the tank water clean.

What Do Red Zebra Cichlids Eat? 

In aquariums, you can feed them a vegetable-based diet without any difficulty. Be it lettuce, flakes, pellets, spinach, or even duckweed; Red Zebra Cichlids have no problem eating an assortment of items.

Moreover, to replicate their natural habitat, it would be best to let algae grow inside the tank. This saves you the cost of buying regular fish meals while ensuring that they don’t starve.

The fish can graze on the algae when needed, making it easy to keep them healthy. Furthermore, you can feed them protein supplements like shrimp bits and succulent earthworms, just not a lot.

It’s important to note that these fish will eat anything, but a healthy diet is a must if you want to maintain their bright colors. So, try to base their diet around premium-quality herbivorous food, combined with tiny meat bits.

Tank Mates 

Choosing a suitable tank mate is quite a headache because it’s challenging to judge how the Red Zebra Cichlid will react towards another species. 

You can choose another African fish from Lake Malawi, the Jewel Cichlid, which might be able to keep up with their temperamental counterparts. In some cases, docile fish like bristlenose plecos, cuckoo catfish, and pop-eyed fish may also be suitable tank inhabitants. 

Ideally, it would be best to keep the Cichlids in a separate tank. But as most aquarists like to mix species, try to ensure that the tank isn’t crowded. 

Plus, they are aggressive towards each other, especially during the mating season, so it would be best to keep one male and several females.

Red Zebra Cichlid Breeding

A ratio of one male for every three females is the best way to breed homegrown Red Zebra Cichlids.

During the mating season, the male puts on an elaborate show for the female by shimmying and displaying its beautiful colors. And remember how we spoke about adding caves and rocks to the tank? Apart from hiding, it’s the perfect spot for the female to lay her eggs.

One female can lay up to 60 eggs, after which she puts them in her mouth and starts following the male. This is where the bright egg spots on the male help attract the female.

When she comes close, he releases the sperm to fertilize the eggs. Then the male and female go their separate ways, with the female taking sole responsibility for the eggs till they hatch.

All in all, it takes about 20 days for the fry to appear.

Red Zebra Cichlid Diseases 

Red Zebra Cichlids are susceptible to several diseases; we’ve listed the most common ones below.

Swim Bladder Disease 

Swim bladder disease prevents Red Zebra Cichlids from swimming, attacking the abdominal sac. There could be several causes for this disease, including trauma and physical injury.

Malawi Bloat 

Malawi bloat is a common ailment among African Cichlids, affecting the kidney and liver. Some common symptoms include rapid breathing, swelling, discolored feces, and appetite loss.


Tuberculosis is highly contagious and may also spread to aquarists. It would help if you were watchful for lethargic fish, those exhibiting mood swings, and frayed fins, which are some tell-tale signs.


Although it’s a daunting task, your Red Zebra Cichlids will grow and flourish with the proper care and regular maintenance.

It would help to keep them in a large tank that resembles their natural habitat as close as possible. Adding rocks, pebbles, caves, and pyramids will offer them enough room to move around.

Additionally, you can keep the female in a separate tank during the breeding season, ensuring that the fry has enough room after hatching.

That’s all for now. I hope these tips prove useful to you! Anyone else have strategies for caring Red Zebra Cichlid, Comment them below!

7 Most Popular Types Of Danios (+ With Pictures)

7 Most Popular Types Of Danios

Lively and tiny – Danios will be the most pleasant and playful companions in your aquarium. 

These hardy fishes survive in unheated tanks and have minimal maintenance requirements, making them the top pick for novices and experienced aquarists. Besides, they are small-sized and do not require large aquariums to move around. 

So, if you are looking for tiny fishes for your small aquarium space, there’s no need to look any further. 

In this guide, we will look at the different types of Danios and tell you everything you need to know about them. So, without further ado, let’s begin. 

Danio Fish Types

Although there are different types of Danios, only a handful of species are commonly available. We’ve listed them here for you. Let’s take a look.

Zebra Danio

Zebra Danio
Photo: fro_Ost

Zebra Danios are a popular pick for freshwater tanks with their gorgeous stripes and small size due to their unfussy nature and minimal requirements. These South Asian natives are omnivores that can grow up to 2 inches and require a tank capacity of 10 gallons.

They have a spindle-shaped body, with five iridescent stripes running along its length, and prefer to live in groups. So, always keep at least five or more Zebrafish in your tank.

Active and playful, these fishes are non-aggressive and can live with other species of the same size. The ideal water temperatures for them are around 64 to 77℉.

Celestial Pearl Danios

Celestial Pearl Danios
Photo: CheepShot

Originating from South East Asia, Pearl Danios have white-spotted bodies with red or orange fins and lighten up any aquarium they are placed in. These fishes are no bigger than two inches and are quite shy and mellow. So, always keep them in groups with similar-sized species, or else they might fall prey to large fishes.

Moving on, they prefer heavily-vegetated tanks since it resembles their natural habitat and gives them more space to hide while laying eggs. The males of the species tend to get aggressive while looking for mates, so always keep more female fishes in the tank.

White Cloud Mountain Minnows

White Cloud Mountain Minnows
Photo: moontan

White Cloud Mountain Minnows are brightly colored fishes originating from China. They are hardy and can survive different water conditions and temperatures. Ideally, they should be placed in water temperatures of 64 to 72℉ but can stay in unheated tanks, even if the temperature falls as low as 41℉.

Always keep them in schools of 6 or more (in a balanced male to female ratio), and they breed easily, spawning several times a year. The male species tend to get aggressive during the mating season, so it might be better to shift them in separate 7-gallon tanks.

In addition, these fishes grow no bigger than an inch or two and are easygoing when kept in groups, making them excellent tank mates for a large variety of similar-sized species.

Giant Danios

Giant Danios
Photo: Jubs13

Another fish from the Minnow family, Giant Danios, are freshwater fishes that can grow up to 4 to 6 inches, making them one of the largest Danio species.

Although they are generally peaceful, you should keep them with species similar to their size, or else they can prey on smaller fish varieties. Their large size makes them compatible with Cichlid tanks, as long as they are kept in groups.

These fishes are quite active and playful, and therefore need ample space to move around. Ideally, their tank should be no less than 30 gallons. Also, Giant Danios jump a lot, so don’t forget to cover your tank.

Glowlight Danios

Glowlight Danios
Photo: swordw

Another shoaling species they are bright-colored and peaceful, preferring cooler water temperatures and dense plant cover. These grow a little over one inch and are pretty active, requiring a minimum tank capacity of 10 gallons.

Since these fishes are shy, ensure there is sufficient hiding space for them to breed. Usually, a combination of coarse gravel and aquatic plants will suffice.

Spotted Danio

Photo: Choy Heng-Wah

Originating from Myanmar, Spotted Danios are freshwater fishes that are less than two inches long. As their name suggests, they are characterized by the appearance of iridescent spots that run along with their silver-colored bodies.

They are timid fishes that do well if kept with creatures their size. Suitable tankmates include Cory Catfish, Glowlight Danios, and Small Tetras. Ideally, they should be kept in a large school of 6 or more fishes.

Rose Danio

Photo: wikipedia

Rose Danios make great tank mates, as long as the fishes are of similar sizes and peaceful. They are hardy and easy to care for, growing around 2 inches and constantly moving around.

An important point you should remember with this species is that they require soft water, with temperatures that range between 68 to 77℉. Ideally, a group of twenty or more fishes will thrive in a community tank, but you can also keep 6 or 7 Danios in a 20-gallon tank.

Frequently Asked Questions

How Many Danios Should Be Kept Together?

Since Danios thrive well in groups, you should keep a minimum of 6 fishes in a tank of 25 gallons.

What Types Of Danios Are Best For A 10-Gallon Tank?

If you have a smaller aquarium, then you should choose Celestial Pearl Danios and Zebra Danios. They are small in size, non-aggressive, and can survive in small tanks.

Can Different Types Of Danio Breed?

Danios can be genetically modified to breed. Besides, some species like Zebra Danios breed with their subspecies (Leopard Danios). Crossbreeding is usually discouraged since it leads to infertility and reduces the lifespan of Danios.

Can You Mix Different Types Of Danios?

Although different Danios of similar sizes can live together peacefully, they can tell their species apart and tend to become reclusive instead of schooling. 


That’s all for today!

We hope you can now select the right species of Danios for your aquarium. Remember, Danios are peaceful, active, and hardy – so as long as you fulfill all their requirements, these fishes will add a stunning charm to your space without being troublesome. 

A word of advice before we go: clean the water tanks frequently since the buildup of toxins is detrimental to the health of Danios. Until next time, take care!

Can Angelfish Live With Goldfish?

Can Angelfish Live With Goldfish

Two of the most common fish species found in home aquariums are angelfish and goldfish. 

Naturally, people expect that they can live in the same tank. But before trying anything fancy, it would be a good idea to have all the relevant information to make the right decision.

In this article,  we’ll answer the question: can angelfish live with goldfish?Let’s find out. 

Can Angelfish Live With Goldfish?

The simple answer is no, Goldfish and Angelfish are two different types of fish that cannot live together in the same tank because they need totally opposite environments to thrive. Goldfish originate from more cold climates while Angels come from warmer water, which means their personalities will be very hard for one another to tolerate as well!

Let’s a closer look reveals why this is a bad idea. 


Goldfish and angelfish thrive in different temperatures. Goldfish are more at home in cold water conditions while angelfish, being a tropical fish, prefers warmer waters.

Understandably, it’s impossible to maintain contrasting temperatures in the same tank. While goldfish do well in temperatures ranging between 62 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit, angelfish can only live when the aquarium temperature is above 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Failing to provide proper temperature conditions for either species will lead to several health issues, including sickness, aggressive behavior, lack of appetite, or even death.


Angelfish and goldfish have many of the same dietary requirements, they’re both omnivores, but angelfish need more protein than the average goldfish does!

They can eat the same things, including mosquito larvae, bloodworms, and brine shrimp. Perfectly cut-up vegetables such as mustard greens or collards also work well if fed to goldfish in higher quantities.

Breeding Issues

You need to have a clear knowledge of the breeding habits of both angelfish and goldfish. During the spawning phase, fish are highly sensitive, and a crowded tank may lead to stress.

Everything from the water conditions to the room’s atmosphere must be ideal, ensuring that they can breed and take care of the eggs. Fish are easily spooked, and even sudden movements might endanger reproduction.

Moreover, angelfish are notorious for eating their eggs. It takes the male and female fish several spawning cycles before they become devoted parents.

Unsurprisingly, if the goldfish lay eggs in the same tank, there’s a high chance that the angelfish might gobble them up.

Tank Size

Although angelfish aren’t very big, goldfish can grow to several times the size of their freshwater counterparts. While you can keep one angelfish in 4 gallons of water, even a baby goldfish needs at least 5 gallons of water.

As they continue to grow, Goldfish require 10 gallons of water, while fully grown goldfish need 25-30 gallons of water. Understandably, it isn’t easy to have a big enough tank to accommodate both species.

Keeping angelfish and goldfish in a smaller tank will lead to health issues, disease outbreaks, and even death. So, we suggest that you avoid overcrowding.

On the other hand, Goldfish, like most fish prefer longer tanks because it gives them more swimming room, however, angelfish need tall tanks due to their deep bodies.

pH Level

An important factor why angelfish and goldfish can’t live together is that they need different pH levels to survive. Being more sensitive, goldfish do better when the pH value is between 7.2 and 7.6.

In contrast, angelfish are resilient and can survive in conditions with a pH value between 6.5 and 7.1. In fact, 6.8 is the ideal pH level for their breeding cycle.

Long story short, there’s no way for you to maintain different pH levels in the same tank. Any change to the pH value severely affects both angelfish and goldfish, leading to health issues, among other things.

Tank Maintenance & Cleaning

Goldfish produce a lot of waste, meaning it’s important to change the water regularly, and they need good filtration system. In comparison, angelfish are low-maintenance, but they have their perks as well.

It’s essential to keep your fish healthy, as they get stressed very easily, and maintaining a clean tank with fresh water should be your priority. Failing to do so might lead to high ammonia level, shocking behavioral changes, causing them to turn on each other.

Angelfish prefer serene planted tanks while goldfish are not the best tank mates for plants. In fact, they may kill most of them! Goldfish should be kept in a species only setup to avoid any damage on their behalf and out of consideration for those who might want an aquarium with live plants.


It is really not recommended that keeping angelfish and goldfish in the same tank. Looking after fish requires a lot of dedication, and it’s best not to have two different species with varying needs living in the same tank.

Instead, I’d recommend keeping them separately, as that way you can give each of them the specific conditions they need.

Happy fish keeping!

How Often Do Angelfish Lay Eggs?(Everything You Need To Know)

How Often Do Angelfish Lay Eggs

One of the most sought-after fish species for home aquariums is the angelfish. 

This tropical fish is available in numerous colors and sizes, making it popular among aquarists. Moreover, they can live for several years and reproduce rapidly. 

But when it comes to caring for angelfish eggs you’ll have to deal with various factors, providing just the right conditions for them to breed. So, today we’ve highlighted all the essential points related to angelfish and answered some of the most common queries to help you. 

Let’s get started, shall we? 

Do Angelfish Lay Eggs?

Fish either lay eggs or give birth to their live young ones, and angelfish belong to the former category. Female angelfish lay eggs after they are fully grown, producing 100-1,000 eggs at a time, depending on their size. 

Also, if you remove the eggs right away, the female will lay a new set of eggs within two weeks. However, leaving the eggs ensures that the female angelfish won’t reproduce until you relocate the eggs to a new tank.

Angelfish eggs stages

Angelfish undertake a brief yet elaborate breeding process right from laying the eggs to the time they hatch. So, note the following points to be well informed.

Tidying The Breeding Area

Angelfish begin cleaning the fish tank with the intention of breeding. Mating angelfish make it a point to tidy up the spawning site so that the female can lay the eggs. 

They are quite meticulous in this process, and it could last for a day. However, that doesn’t mean that the breeding area won’t change in the future. 

So, what are some of the egg-laying hotspots for angelfish? Well, any feature like the heater, tank wall, or even removable plants proves suitable for a cozy home. 

Many people place a designated breeding slate in the tank, which the angelfish might find convenient for laying eggs. If so, you can safely remove the eggs to a different tank before they hatch. 

Laying The Eggs

After the spawning area is spick and span, the female fish springs into action, laying all her eggs vertically. Like a well-oiled machine, the male quickly follows suit, and fertilizes the eggs by brushing them.

You’ll find several translucent eggs, smaller than a needle’s eye, sticking to the spawning area.

The period between laying and hatching is a crucial time, and this is when you can help as the caretaker. You must remember that angelfish breed only when the tank conditions are just right. And they are easily spooked, so it would help to avoid sudden movements or any changes to the tank condition. 

Understandably, some people place the fertilized eggs in a smaller tank. After that, it’s important that you conduct a water change for ¼th volume of the tank daily if possible, providing the ideal conditions for hatching. 

Moreover, constant monitoring is vital, and you need to remove the unfertilized eggs, thereby protecting the healthy ones. 

Pre-Hatching Eggs

Sixty hours after laying the eggs, the larva reaches one of its pre-hatching stages. As the larvae start to develop, you’ll find them curling their body around the yolk sac.

Additionally, the eggs’ color changes to a transparent hue, but other developments like blood flow and heartbeat are only visible under microscopes.

Wiggling the Eggs

If all goes according to plan, you’ll find baby angelfish wiggling inside the eggs, meaning fertilization was successful. The babies attach themselves to the egg’s yolk at this stage, which is eaten by them to develop vital organs.

The Fry Are Born

After 3-4 days, the larvae hatch from their eggs and are known as angelfish fry. All you need to do is feed them microorganisms, often found inside the tank, and monitor their growth.

What Do Angelfish Eggs Look Like?

Angelfish eggs are extremely small and look like very tiny pearls, not larger than a needle hole. At the right temperature, the female will give birth to sticky, translucent eggs that slowly turn transparent, thanks to the proper fertilization. 

How To Tell If Angelfish Eggs Are Fertilized?

The best way to determine whether the angelfish eggs are fertilized is by looking at their color. It usually varies between amber and brown, which is a clear indication of their health.

However, if the color turns white, it means that there is something wrong. You may still manage to rescue the eggs, but the key is to be proactive. It’s essential to be vigilant and monitor how the color changes so that you can prevent unfertilized eggs from damaging the good ones.

What Does It Mean When Angelfish Eggs Turn White?

If the angelfish eggs turn white, it’s a sign that things have gone downhill. When you find the color changing to opaque white, focus on saving the healthy eggs.

Usually, opaque white eggs are a sign of fungal infections, but there may be other factors as well, which we’ll discuss in the following section. The key is to closely monitor the eggs for signs of infertility.

What Can Cause Angelfish Eggs To Change Color?

Now, let’s discuss why eggs produced by angelfish parents sometimes change color; you can note these points to develop a clear idea. 

Mistaken Identity

At times, you may fall victim to a classic case of “mistaken identity” since both male and female angelfish look the same. Female angelfish have the unique ability to lay eggs irrespective of whether there are male fish in the tank. 

So, if you fail to have no male fish in the tank, the eggs remain unfertilized. This causes them to turn white and die due to the fast-spreading fungus. 


As mentioned, sometimes it’s important to remove angelfish eggs, in community tank to a separate enclosure. However, this is a sensitive process, and you need to follow the correct procedure. 

So, try not to keep the eggs out of the water for too long, which is only possible if you keep the new tank ready. If the eggs turn white after relocation, it points to a fungal infection or infertility. 


The best way to spot infertility is if the eggs fail to attain the amber color, instead they turn white straight away. It’s a sign that the male is infertile, and the only solution is attempting to breed a different pair of fish.

Negative Water Conditions

Another factor that has nothing to do with the fish but impacts fertilization nonetheless is the water condition. Too much ammonia or nitrates proves detrimental as both the parents and the fry find it challenging to adjust to the water. Hence, the eggs turn white.

Rough Water

It’s vital to regulate water circulation inside the tank, creating the ideal conditions for fertilization. Start by keeping the breeding slate in one corner of the tank, far from the surface pump.

Proceed to ensure that the water circulation doesn’t stagnate, leading to impurities while depriving the fish of oxygen. Similarly, heavy circulation will wash the sperm off the eggs, meaning it’s critical to strike the right balance.

Fungus Growth

The primary reason for angelfish eggs turning opaque white is a fungal infection. All the above factors could result in fungus attacking the eggs, meaning you need to be watchful. Also, keep the water clean and wash both tanks before transferring the eggs. 

If there are more white eggs than healthy eggs, it would help to add a fungicide, such as methylene blue. There’s no guarantee, but you might be able to save some of the eggs.  

Angelfish spawning
Photo: BillKasman

How Long Does It Take For Angelfish Eggs To Hatch?

Angelfish reproduce fast, and the eggs hatch without any hassle if you provide them with the right temperature conditions. For instance, it would be best to maintain the temperature at 80 degrees Fahrenheit to quicken the process. 

Overall, it takes around 60 hours for the eggs to develop, followed by a larval stage where it remains attached to a yolk for nourishment. Once each larva can fend for itself, it takes them 3-5 days to become free-swimming fry.

How To Remove Unfertilized Angelfish Eggs?

You must remove unfertilized angelfish eggs, preventing them from infecting the few good ones. Now, these tiny eggs are extremely delicate, so you need to use tweezers to separate the fertile eggs from the rest.

Take the breeding slate to the new tank and gently remove the fertile eggs with a pair of tweezers, dropping them onto any suitable surface. Then it’s all about providing the right conditions for hatching.

How To Prevent Angelfish From Eating The Eggs?

Aquarists who breed angelfish in community tank need to prevent other angelfish from eating the eggs. It’s usually a sign of stress, and there are even reports of the pregnant fish eating its own eggs. 

There might be several reasons for this, such as inexperienced aquarists, too much commotion surrounding the tank, and unfavorable water conditions. Naturally, it would be a good idea to choose a quiet and comfortable corner of your home to place the tank, ensuring that the fish can relax. 

Also, like humans, angelfish parents need a couple of tries before they learn the skills of raising the fry. So, if they don’t give birth to fertilized eggs in the first few attempts, you must remain patient. 

Furthermore, clean the tank and maintain the ideal water temperature and make the fish feel at home. Not to mention, you need to feed them well to reduce their appetite so that they don’t eat their own eggs.

How To Care For Angelfish Eggs?

To take care of angelfish eggs, you need to follow these steps. 

Preparing A Breeding Tank

It would be best to have a separate breeding tank so that you can remove the eggs right away. Doing so increases their chances of survival as parents are the first threat they face.

Then just like the adult angelfish, you need to ensure that fungus, debris, and other impurities don’t harm the eggs. You’ll need to act as the primary caregiver until they hatch. 

Acclimatise The Eggs

When moving the eggs to the breeding tank, it’s essential that the conditions don’t change. This entails keeping the new tank ready one day before the transfer so that the conditions are as similar as possible. 

Overall, the water temperature should be between 72 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit, while the pH range must lie between 6.8 and 7.8. Also, angelfish eggs dry fast, meaning you need to shift them in a water container. 

Daily Maintenance

We suggest installing an active filter, removing the tank of impurities. It speeds up the breeding process, ensuring that the babies will hatch in no time. 

Daily maintenance is a must, along with removing damaged eggs to prevent the spread of the fungus. Hence, it would help to add any suitable fungicide to arrest the spread of the disease. 

Managing Water Flow

Although you need to install a filter, you must purchase one based on the tank’s size. If the filter is too large, the sperm will wash away while the small filter fails to remove debris. You could also use the air stone, which is part of the air pump, to oxygenate the eggs.


How Many Eggs Do Angelfish Lay at Once?

There are different strands of angelfish that vary in size. So, depending upon these two factors, angelfish can lay anywhere between 100 and 1,000 eggs.

How often do angelfish lay eggs?

Pregnant angelfish can lay eggs every two weeks or even less than that if you remove the eggs right after reproduction. In case you decide to leave them in the tank, the parents won’t breed until you remove the eggs

Where Do Angelfish Lay Their Eggs?

Angelfish lay eggs in any spot that they can clean thoroughly. Be it a removable leaf, the tank heater, breeding slate, or even the tank walls; female angelfish lay eggs in rows on vertical surfaces.

Do Angelfish Lay Eggs Without a Male?

The female angelfish might be able to lay eggs without a male, but without a partner to fertilize them, the eggs may eventually die. It may so happen that you fail to distinguish between the male and female fish or the female chooses the wrong partner.

Other factors like the number of fish in the tank and available space also determine whether angelfish will spawn. Overall if the conditions are right, you can expect to find eggs in the tank.

Why Won’t the Male Angelfish Fertilize the Eggs?

If the male angelfish refuses to fertilize the eggs, it might be because he is a first-time parent. While angelfish spawn very frequently, it takes a pair more than a couple of cycles to figure out what to do.

You don’t need to worry, and it’s essential to give them time because taking care of the eggs is a delicate task. There’s a lot to do, and it’s pretty common for the first few spawning cycles to be unsuccessful.

How Do I Know Which Angelfish Eggs Are Fertile?

Fertilized angelfish eggs have a translucent amber-brown appearance, whereas an unfertilized batch will have an opaque white look. Good angelfish parents prevent the latter from happening by regularly cleaning the eggs of fungus and debris. 

Male Angelfish Eating Eggs, What to Do?

There are two primary reasons why a male angelfish will eat its own eggs: stress and inexperience. In terms of the former, several factors may lead to stress, such as a packed community tank, sudden movement, commotion, or changes to the water condition. 

It may cause the male to eat the eggs, or he may just be hungry. So, remember to keep both parents well-fed. Other than that, if the male is inexperienced in caring for the eggs, all you can do is give the pair time to figure out the breeding process.

Angelfish Keep Laying Eggs on the Filter, Glass, and Heater. What Should I Do?

Angelfish usually lay eggs on vertical surfaces, so you need to offer them an alternative. Introduce a breeding slate or the Amazon sword, which has vertical leaves, perfect for egg-laying. Additionally, PVC pipes work just as well.

Also, try to cover the filter and heater or simply change their location.


That’s all there is to know about angelfish and their breeding habits.

Hopefully, you now have a clear idea regarding the task at hand. Once they become adults, you can rest easy, as daily nourishment and a clean tank are all that the angelfish need to stay healthy.

But taking care of the babies is a challenging proposition, having its fair share of failures. That said, we believe our detailed guide provides efficient solutions, allowing you to keep this tropical fish happy.

Here’s, wishing you success. Bye!

Do Betta Fish Need Air Pump? A Breakdown

Do Bettas Need Air Pumps

An air pump is a pretty simple addition to just about any aquarium. They essentially work at bubbling air all throughout your tank. There are a number of different fish which can benefit from the presence of such a device. However, if you’re new to keeping betta fish, you may be wondering do betta fish need air pump?

As you’re going to find out, there are several different components to this question that we need to look at. In a word, the answer is probably no, but you may find an air pump is necessary in your situation.

Let’s break this subject down point by point.

Do Betta Fish Need Air Pump?

If we focus specifically on the word “Need”, the answer is simple enough. No, they don’t need an air pump, in the sense that some fish need one to tank properly circulated. They move oxygenated water down to the bottom of the tank, while simultaneously moving fresh water to the top of your tank to become oxygenated.

Simple right? You can begin to see the value of this product for the fish in your aquarium.

However, this doesn’t translate to necessarily needing one for bettas. While the bubbles create a surface movement that in turns moves along this oxygenation process, bettas do not need the extra agitation. A simple filter in the tank will accomplish what your bettas need to be happy. This also takes into their own movement.

An air pump is mostly going to be useless, as far as your bettas are concerned. There are exceptions to this rule, which we are going to cover shortly. For now, let’s explain why bettas are different from other fish, in terms of whether or not you need an air pump for the tank.

Can Air Pumps Cause Problems For Bettas?

The air pump can actually create too much movement in the water. This can cause your bettas to become stressed out, which can lead to other health issues, including poor appetite and agitation. You obviously don’t want those things.

The other issue is that they just don’t really need it. The purpose of the air pump is to get oxygen to fish that prefer to swim along the bottom of your tank. Bettas traditionally spend a fair amount of their day-to-day existence swimming close to the surface of the tank. This allows them to get all of the air they need.

At the same time, there are in fact instances in which an air pump can be very helpful indeed for your betta fish. We’re going to take a look at when you may want to consider one.

When Will My Betta Need An Air Pump?

The fact that bettas do not generally need an air pump is not the end of the matter. Let’s take a look at some of the situations in which it may indeed be warranted on your part:


If your betta is taking medicine, then it might be a good idea to get an air pump. This is done to make up for the fact that many of the top betta medications can eat up the oxygen that is normally in the tank. In fact, unchecked, certain meds for a betta can cause them to suffocate, unable to get the oxygen they need. An air pump covers the gap nicely.

Special Circumstances

There are also situations in which an air pump can prove you with an added level of protection for your betta, in the event of something like a power outage. Remember that air pumps are available in battery-powered form. If the electricity goes out, and you are unsure as to when it might come back on.


As long as the air pump isn’t causing actual agitation with your betta, the odds are pretty good that it will actually enjoy having the bubbles it produces around. Again, provided, it doesn’t stress them out, their other likely response will be to play with it. Anything that gets your bettas playing, while keeping them thoroughly entertained, can prove to be a really good idea.

These are just a few of the reasons to keep in mind. At the same time, we have to reiterate that with the exception of the medication reason, none of these scenarios are a “must.”

Okay, Okay, Should I Buy An Air Pump For My Betta?

Our advice would be to consider at least purchasing one of the top air pumps for fish tanks that are currently available. Why? In a nutshell, we aren’t talking about a particularly expensive piece of equipment. This is something you can buy, and set aside for any of the scenarios that we listed above. If you never have to use the air pump, then you really won’t be losing anything.

If there is in fact an emergency, such as medication, or the power going out, you are going to be glad you have the air pump on hand.

Having said all of this, definitely keep an eye on your bettas, if you happen to add an air pump at any point. Pay attention to their behavior. If they start to get stressed out, or if something like their appetite seems to be taking a turn for the worse, you should almost certainly have the air pump removed ASAP.

Lastly, don’t forget that air pumps are NOT the same as a filter! This is a common mistake that some fish owners make, and the consequences can be problematic. Especially when you understand that an air pump is not cleaning the tank as it works. It is simply helping to oxygenate the water by agitating it.

To put it one way: You don’t need an air pump. You will definitely need a filter.

We hope this clears the matter up. If you still aren’t sure if an air pump is right for your bettas, consider talking to your vet about the matter.

Betta Fish Fin Loss 101: How To Protect Your Bettas

Betta Fish Fin Loss

Is betta fish fin loss something to worry about? Should you immediately panic, as you begin to notice the most common signs of betta fish fin loss or rot? In many cases, yes, fin loss is something that should be treated very seriously. However, in other situations, it actually isn’t that big of a deal.

What Does Fin Loss Really Mean For Bettas?

Also known by such names as tail rot, fin rot, or even fin melt, fin loss in betta fish is fairly easy to notice. You may one day suddenly notice that your betta’s fins appear frayed, or that it even appears as though the fin is missing pieces. You may just notice the color of the betta fin, one of their most beloved physical features, is starting to fade a little bit.

What does all of this mean? Diagnosing fin loss in bettas can be frustrating. This is due to the fairly long list of potential culprits. Further complicating the issue of fin loss diagnosis and treatment is the fact that fin rot and fin loss are NOT the same thing. While the names may be interchangeable to sum, it is key to remember that we are actually talking about two different things.

We’re going to cover these differences in this comprehensive look at betta fish fin loss. We will also be taking a look at common causes of fin loss, when betta fish fin loss requires treatment, and what you can do to keep your betta safe and happy.

What Causes Betta Fish To Experience Fin Loss?

If you notice that your betta fish is experiencing the signs of fin loss, remember that your first move should not be to look for treatment options. Until you know exactly what causes fin loss in betta fish, your treatment choice could prove to be decidedly hit or miss, with missing being the more likely of the two.

When it comes to the main causes of fin loss for bettas, there are a few common possibilities you need to keep in mind:

Tank decorations

Believe it or not, but something in your aquarium can be causing the damage, and you wouldn’t even necessarily know it! Obviously, we don’t mean to hurt our bettas. However, some decorations feature edges that are much too sharp. Given that bettas love to swim around, certain plants and toys can have poking components that can get snagged on their tails. This can cause varying degrees of damage, particularly over time.

Biting its own tail

This may sound ridiculous, but it absolutely possible. Stress and/or boredom are the two most common causes for this behavior. If you notice your betta engaging in tail biting behavior, there are several potential causes you will need to explore.

Problems with other fish

While betta fish can indeed get along with other types of fish, even other bettas, they are still well-known for their potential to run into problems with tankmates. For example, fish who are both smaller and faster than your betta might be bullying it. This can lead to your betta experiencing damage across its fin, as the other fish might be nipping as they swim past.

These are the three most common causes of fin loss in betta fish.

It is also possible that your betta is suffering from fin rot, which in of itself can lead to fin loss. This is a good point to get into why it’s important to know the differences between fin loss and fin rot in betta fish.

What Are The Key Differences Between Betta Fin Loss And Fin Rot?

The biggest significance difference between fin loss and fin rot? One is an injury caused by one factor or another. The other is a bacterial infection that can give your betta a host of issues.

In other words:

  • Fin rot in betta fish can lead to fin loss.
  • The presence of fin loss does not mean your betta definitely has fin rot.

Fin loss comes with a list of potential treatments. The challenge on your end is to make sure the treatment matches the issue. For example, if the problem is simply that another fish is bothering your betta, you don’t need to explore the treatment choices associated with fin rot. You simply need to move the offending fish.

What Exactly Causes Betta Fish Fin Rot

What Exactly Causes Betta Fish Fin Loss?

Fin loss involves physical tearing. Fin rot will be noticeable in your betta by several different symptoms:

  • The edges of the fins have changed color, resembling something that is more black or brown in appearance.
  • The edges of your betta’s fins are going to appear to be very frayed, worn-down.
  • Look to the base of the fin in your betta. Does it appear to be inflamed? This is one of the most common fin rot causes to watch out for.
  • The fin may begin to fall off, sometimes in very large pieces. This is where fin loss and fin rot intersect. Again, they are not the same thing.
  • In addition to damage to the fin, you should also look for the appearance of whiteish spots. This could mean your betta fish is dealing with a condition known as ICH.

As you can see, fin rot is definitely something that should be taken seriously. If you notice any of the symptoms mentioned above, take steps to deal with fin rot as quickly and effectively as possible.

What Are The Best Ways To Treat Fin Rot In Bettas?

While we can’t take you through everything you need to do about fin rot and bettas (see above), we’ve covered some basic fin rot care tips for your betta fish below:

  • Make sure the water in the tank is consistently being changed.
  • You may want to add aquarium salt to the tank, in conjunction with keeping the water in the tank clean and filtered. This is going to depend on the severity of the fin rot.
  • In certain situations, particularly at the occasional advice of a vet, you can consider the notion of medication. Make sure to follow all directions associated with the prescription.

As important as betta fish fin rot is, it isn’t the main reason why we’re here. Let’s get back to fin loss specifically with a closer look at some of the different ways you can treat and prevent fin loss.

The Best Ways To Treat And Prevent Fin Loss In Betta Fish

At the end of the day, simply paying close attention to your betta fish will give you the ability to determine exactly how to best move forward.

For example, is your betta being bullied by another fish, even another betta? You’ll need to separate them in some form or fashion, or make it less likely for them to bump into each other. Understand that once the cause to the damage has been addressed, the fin loss should clear up all on its own. Bettas are fairly hardy fish. Don’t forget that their fin will almost certainly return to its former brilliance.

Is the culprit a particular tank decoration? Are you not sure which one? Unless you have a massive tank with tons and tons of trees, rock items, and other products, figuring out the cause of your betta’s fin loss isn’t going to be too difficult. After all, betta fish are pretty territorial. Furthermore, they tend to focus on a fairly specific area for that territory. Simply identify and remove the item.

If fin-biting is the culprit behind your betta fish’s fin loss, all you need to do is figure out what is causing the stress or aggravation. It could be any number of things. Just make it a point to keep an eye on your betta, over the course of their day. With a close watch, you should be able to find the issue.

How To Prevent Betta Fin Loss

If the cause does not involve fin rot, or any other bacterial conditions that can lead to fin rot, then getting rid of the trigger will address the rest of the problem. However, if you want to optimize the healing time, while simultaneously preventing the more serious complaint of fin rot from ever occurring, there are several things to take to heart.

Maintaining the best possible water quality should be at the top of your betta fish care guide regardless. Maintaining ideal conditions for your bettas, which extends to making sure the water is being changed on a regular basis, means a betta that will be able to thrive and live for years to come. Some would even go so far as to suggest changing ten percent of the water in your betta aquarium every day, or at least every other day.

Whether you go that far or not, you should also make sure your betta is living in an ideal-sized tank. Anything less than 20-gallons for a betta fish is widely considered to be unacceptable. 10-15 gallons can be just “okay” for a betta, but you will definitely want more than that for any more. Furthermore, larger tanks, even a solo betta, create suitable conditions in which they can thrive.

You may also want to consider feeding your betta a treat known as daphnia. While this shouldn’t be the only thing offered to your betta in their diet, it does contribute greatly to their general health. This doesn’t equal a proven and specific benefit with respect to fin loss, but given its long list of benefits, it really doesn’t hurt to keep some of this stuff around regardless.

Finally, both aquarium salt and API stress coats offer additional ways to keep your tank in the best possible shape for bettas any other life. Aquarium salt leaves your betta with a better slime coat, which protects them from all sorts of things, including fin rot. An API stress coat is quite frankly rather impressive. Not only does it work at conditioning the water in your tank, but it also provides your betta with a de-stressor.

Betta’s Fin Grow Back

Will My Betta’s Fin Definitely Grow Back?

Almost definitely. It really comes down to the attention you’re going to give them during the healing stage. If you’re doing everything we mentioned in the steps above, the fin of your betta fish is going to be restored in no time at all.

Just keep in mind that the fin of a betta is going to be highly fragile during the recovery stage. You want to keep an eye on your betta to be certain they are eating. You should also keep an eye out for any indications that something new is causing stress to your betta. You don’t want that under any circumstances, but it can be particularly problematic while they are on the mend.

How Will I Know If My Betta Fish’s Fin Is Recovering

More likely than not, you are going to be pretty impatient for signs your betta fish’s fin is coming back from fin loss. Regardless of tank conditions, you need to be aware that it is going to take a little while.

Under the best possible circumstances, the fin of your betta fish should begin to grow back in just a few weeks. However, even with everything covered up to this point, it can still take some time for the betta to heal as it should. In most extreme situations, the fin will be fully healed within a few months.

As long as you see some progress, and keep an eye on them, you really shouldn’t have anything to worry about.

Look for a clear membrane along the fin of your betta. Do you see it? That means they are in the regrowth stage. They will almost certainly continue to get better from here.

Final Fin Loss Prevention Tips

Preventing fin loss is easier than you might think. Avoid adding aggressive fish to the aquarium, and make sure none of your decorations can potentially cause harm. You can also make sure your betta’s intelligence and playfulness are being met.

Best Goldfish Tanks 2021: Which One Is Right For You? [Reviews + Guide]

Best Goldfish Tanks

As we’ve discussed in the past, your fancy goldfish need so much more than a small bowl and some fish food.

A fish known for its simplicity and hardiness, the goldfish in any form is unfortunately the victim of several dangerous misconceptions regarding its care. The assumption is that you can give your goldfish a bowl, some clean water, a bit of gravel, and nothing more. You feed them a few flakes every day. This goes on, until they pass away after a few months to a year.

In this updated buyer guide, we’ve put together a complete list of the best goldfish tanks for you and your goldfish to enjoy.

The So-Called Secret To Long Life In Goldfish

However, did you know that under the right care conditions, goldfish can live for at least twenty-five years? It’s true. The oldest goldfishes in the world top out at 40+ years of age.

There is no miraculous reason for this. A goldfish owner with a 20-year-old goldfish does not have to do anything remarkable to achieve this. They simply have to know what a goldfish needs to be healthy and happy. Feeding them a good diet is one example. Another would be making sure you are purchasing an aquarium which is going to be well-suited to their needs and lifestyle.

Again, you don’t have to go to any significant extremes here. With some basic research, you will be able to see clearly how to shop for and purchase a goldfish tank, and whatever else you put in your aquarium, will love.

Why Your Goldfish Tank Is So Important

First of all, let’s just get rid of the notion of a fish bowl altogether. They are simply too small for goldfish in any form or fashion. Bowls are generally only available in sizes as large as five gallons. This is significantly less than what your goldfish will need.

Take the Common goldfish. They can grow as large as a full foot in size. They love to swim quickly throughout their environment. They also tend to leave behind more waste than many other types of fish. For all of these reasons, they need plenty of room in which to move around comfortably. Five gallons, particularly if we’re talking about a goldfish tank that doesn’t have any filtration, is not going to cut it by a long shot.

Keep in mind that the Common goldfish isn’t the largest goldfish type out there. Not by a long shot.

What Kind Of Tank Should I Get For My Goldfish?

Breeders and hobbyists all agree that you need a best goldfish tank that is at least ten gallons. In fact, many suggest going up another size for the minimum to twenty gallons. Obviously, you will want to take the potential limitations of your own space into consideration. Having said that, anything less than ten gallons is really not going to make for a very happy life for any fish you put in it.

Keeping in mind these tank sizes, we can now take a closer look at some of the best tanks for goldfish that are currently available. If you want to start with the best possible environments for your aquarium dreams, these are the tanks you will want to check out first.

Which Factors Are Most Important When Choosing A Best Goldfish Tank?

Different people are going to have different needs when it comes to finding the best goldfish aquarium. If you are new to shopping for one, there are a number of factors that are going to help influence the one that will best suit whatever you have in mind:


We have already made it clear that you want to start with at least twenty gallons in a fish tank. Before you start looking for something that will work for your needs, try to estimate how many fish you’re going to want at the start. It is usually best to start with one or two, but you may feel that you are capable of handling more than that. It also doesn’t hurt to purchase a goldfish tank with an eye towards getting more fish for it later on.


Paying attention to which materials are used to make fish tanks is one of the most important things to keep in mind. You want materials that are built to resist breaks, leaking, and even scratches whenever possible. The two main options are glass and acrylic. 

While both are quite good, many find that glass offers better resistance to scratches and certain types of leaking, and a better overall shape for the goldfish to swim comfortably. Acrylic fish tanks do offer a more aesthetically-pleasing view to outsiders though.


We’ve touched on this before, but it is well worth repeating a second time. When researching companies that manufacture aquariums, it almost goes without saying that you want a company with a peerless reputation for quality in their products.

One of the biggest strengths with acrylic fish tanks, for example, is the way they are generally considered to be stronger than glass tanks. They are also lighter than glass tanks, which means cleaning and carrying them is going to be a lot easier, as well.


Decide now if you want a goldfish tank with or without the equipment you need for setup.


Ideally, you’re going to find an aquarium with a filter that works flawlessly. However, you may have to go out and find one anyway.

Opening: There are different goldfish tanks with different types of lids, hoods, openings, or whatever the case may be. If you don’t have a whole lot of space, and every inch counts, you want to focus your search on tanks with low-profile hoods, or something else along similar lines.

best goldfish tanks

Reviews For The Best Goldfish Tanks

1. Aqueon Aquarium 20 Gallon Long – Perfect for One Large Fancy Goldfish

While the height of your aquarium is important, what matters arguably more is the length of the tank. An ideal tank is going to give your goldfish plenty of room to swim around, without having to turn around as much. Goldfish generally like to swim from one end of the tank to the next.

To that end, the 20-gallon long aquarium from Aqueon is going to be a great choice for many hobbyists. Coming in at twenty gallons, the goldfish tank is longer, but shallower. Depth is important with any aquarium you might purchase, but it’s not the only thing you’re going to want to keep in mind.

With this option, keep in mind that all you’re getting is the tank. This can be very freeing for those who want to be able to choose their own equipment. At the same time, it may not be a great idea for anyone who is new to keeping fancy goldfish, and may not want to be left to figure out every single thing they are going to need.

The choice is yours to make. However, keep in mind that at the end of the day, building your goldfish aquarium piece by piece is not too terribly difficult.

Aqueon Aquarium 20 Gallon Long
  • High quality glass construction with dimensions 30.25" x 12.5" x 12.75"

2. SeaClear Acrylic Aquarium Combo Set

Available in a fantastically-diverse array of sizes and shapes, this is a good example of why quality is so important in the aquarium you choose. You want something that will ideally stand the test of time. Don’t forget that your fancy goldfish can live a quarter of a century with good care. It stands to reason that you will want them in something they can enjoy for years to come.

Another component to this aquarium that we absolutely love is the view it provides. Thanks to careful attention and exceptional materials in the production phase, this aquarium set for goldfish offers a degree of clarity that will make it wonderfully easy to appreciate your goldfish in their daily routine.

You will also appreciate the fact that this goldfish tank is made from acrylic. This means an aquarium that is extremely durable, and highly unlikely to leak or ever break. Many goldfish owners who choose this tank, which starts in the 20-gallon tank, do so because it is a good aquarium for homes with kids and pets. It also comes with at least a few of the things you’re going to need to get started.

Just keep in mind that acrylic tanks are a little less resistant to scratches than some choices. Also, the florescent light doesn’t seem to be very popular with some customers.

SeaClear 20 gal Acrylic...
  • Combo includes aquarium, reflector and electrical 15" light fixture

3. Tetra Complete Aquarium Kit

If you’re looking for something that will give you everything you need to get started with a basic aquarium setup, the Tetra Complete Aquarium Kit is going to be a fantastic choice. While perhaps not ideal for those who want to keep a lot of fish, it is perfect for those who are just starting out with one or two fish.

Unpacking everything in this kit, you’re going to find that the name lives up to what it promises. Not only do you have everything you need to get set up with a basic aquarium, but the Complete Aquarium Kit from Tetra is also ridiculously easy to set up. This kit is a very popular choice for parents who want to give their children a start in keeping fish.

The filter is also pretty impressive. Not only does it do the job as advertised, but it is also exceptionally quiet. We also appreciate the fact that despite how much stuff it comes with, you will find yourself still with plenty of room for additional plants and decorations. The LED light associated with this kit is also one of the better selections we have found.

Tetra Aquarium 20 Gallon Fish...
  • Tetra Glass Aquariums are made in the USA and are built to last with scratch resistant glass

4. Tetra 55 Gallon Aquarium Kit

Looking for something a bit bigger than the choices we’ve covered? If you know for a fact that you’re going to want a number of fish in your aquarium right from the start, you’re not going to want to settle for 20 gallons. You probably won’t want to waste your time on a 40-gallon option either.

While the price tag for this second entry on our list for Tetra can strike some as a bit on the steep side, it is hard to argue with the quality, the size of the goldfish tank, and what those things will mean to your efforts at keeping goldfish.

Much like the entry above, you’re going to find that you’re getting everything you need for an aquarium setup right out of the box. You shouldn’t have to buy anything else, unless you want more plants and decorations.

Also, as is also the case with the above Tetra kit, we would say everything included functions exactly as it should. This is not always the case with aquariums. Some kits are a little lacking in certain areas. Filtration can be one example, which leads to the need for an additional purchase. You shouldn’t have to worry about that here.

Remember that this is a very large tank, with measurements of 51.90″ L x 24.40″ W x 16.40″ H. The tank in of itself weighs nearly eighty pounds. Once you’ve added your water, fish, material for the bottom, and everything else, the weight is over 500 pounds.

Keeping all of this in mind, it is something that will occupy a significant amount of time in your space. Make sure you’re going to have plenty of room for not only the aquarium itself, but in terms of being able to comfortably maintain it, change the filter, and so forth.

Tetra 55 Gallon Aquarium Kit...
  • LARGE ENVIRONMENT: Larger environments can house more fish or a greater variety of fish. Maintains water temperature. Essential for tropical fishkeeping

5. Marina LED Aquarium Kit

While available in several other sizes, you are obviously going to want to at least start with the 20-gallon option. This is considered by many to be one of the top aquariums for beginners. There are several reasons as to why this is the case. All of them point to an aquarium that is well suited for those just starting out, as well as those who many not have as much space as they might like.

This is another good kit for those who want to have everything they’re going to need right there in one place. Because this is such a solid starter aquarium kit, you’re also going to appreciate the fact that everything is extremely easy to set up. The instructions are very good indeed at laying everything out in the simplest terms possible.

Again, while compact, the 20-gallon tank itself will be just fine for one or two goldfish. Even maintenance for the tank is refreshingly straightforward. All you need to do is make sure the filter is changed out every month. Aquarium maintenance instructions are included, as well. You won’t have to worry about a thing.

However, some users have complained that the filter is not as strong as it needs to be. While this is something that you can obviously decide for yourself, it can be helpful to keep in mind that goldfish leave behind more waste than many other types of fish.

At the end of the day, this is a quiet, compact, and very affordable aquarium for those who are looking to get started on the right foot.

Marina Aquarium Kit - 20...
  • 20 U.S. gallon glass aquarium

6. Skroutz Aquarium Starter Kit

Our look at the best aquarium starter kits for fancy goldfish continues with this worthwhile entry from Skroutz. While the name may strike you as unusual, note that this is a well-reviewed, widely respected manufacturer of aquarium kits and similar products for enthusiasts of all ages.

One of the more interesting things about this goldfish tank is the fact that it clocks in at 29-gallons. This makes it a good option for anyone who wants something a little bigger than a 20-gallon tank, but doesn’t want to go all the way up forty gallons. The Skroutz Aquarium Starter Kit is a nice compromise between those sizes.

The tank includes a hood that is designed for the aquarium to function well in small spaces. Everything about this aquarium is designed to be as compact as possible.

At the same time, we would venture to say that everything included in the box is going to work exactly as it should. You may want to supplement or replace the filter, as a small number of people have complained about it, but most find it to be just fine for 1-3 goldfish.

The only thing we would suggest replacing, or at least supplementing, would be the fish food that is included with the kit. While the food is fine for goldfish, you want to give them a reasonably varied diet.

What you want to be doing is getting as close as possible to the things they would like to eat in the wild. As far as the best food for goldfish is concerned, you have some great choices available.

Skroutz Aquarium Starter Kit...
  • 29-gallon angle aquarium pack with low-profile hood - Normal light sparkle


Getting the right aquarium is clearly one of the most important decisions you will make as a fancy goldfish owner. With so many different goldfish tanks and kits on the market, it can be easy to feel a little overwhelmed by just how much is out there.

Don’t worry. Using our guide as your frame of reference, it shouldn’t be at all difficult to find an aquarium that is going to meet your goldfish and other sea creatures’ needs for as long as you have them.

How To Breed Goldfish The Right Way – A Step By Step Guide (2021)

How To Breed Goldfish

While owning goldfish can be lighthearted, pleasurable, and a lot of fun, learning how to breed goldfish is something else altogether. Indeed, when it comes to breeding any sort of fish, the challenges and demands are numerous. This is particularly true, when it comes to breeding goldfish.

Which goldfish breeding method is the best? What are you going to need to be successful? How long does it take to begin to see results? We’re going to tackle these questions, as well as others, in this overview guide to breeding goldfish.

Whether you plan to do it for profit or for pleasure, there are several things you’re going to want to keep in mind.

From controlling your spawn, to raising your fry, here is everything you need to get going.

Getting Started With The Right Equipment

There are two notable breeding methods that we’re going to touch on. One is known as the natural method of goldfish breeding, while the other is known as hand-breeding. Each method has their own particulars and challenges.

Before we break down what you need to know about these methods, let’s take a look at the essential equipment every goldfish breeder needs to begin:

The Main Space

This should be a large tank. We would suggest starting in the 50-gallon range, but you may want to consider something even larger. You will also want to make sure this tank includes a good filtration system, the proper decorations, and everything else a standard tank needs to be functional and comfortable.

A Secondary Tank

The main aquarium is only the beginning. You’re also going to need a nice, comfortable tank in which to raise your fry. This tank should be around 10 gallons or 20 gallons. Nothing larger than that should be necessary, particularly for a beginner.

(Looking for the best goldfish tank? )

A Heater

There are a number of different options available to you on this front.


We touched on this above, but it is worth emphasizing. An emphasis on live plants is best. Hornwort is a good example. Silk plants and plastic plants are other options that you can explore.

Sponge filter

There are several possibilities for both the 10 and 20-gallon tanks we discussed. You’re going to need this for the fry tank.

Air pump

This is another essential component for the fry tank. Research and choose one that you think will suit your needs.

Spawning Mop

This is entirely optional. This DIY goldfish spawning device is designed to fulfill the role of plants, in terms of catching and keeping the eggs safely. You will want to decide for yourself if one of these is necessary.

Finally, of course, you’re going to want male and female goldfish, as well. You want goldfish who have reached their sexual maturity, which is around one year old. You also want to know how to sex goldfish for breeding correctly. This is one of the aspects of goldfish breeding where things can get a little bit tricky.

How To Sex Goldfish For Breeding Purposes

If you only have room enough in the tank for a single pair of male and female goldfish, that is fine. Some like to hedge their bets with a few males and females. This is fine, as well, provided you have a large enough tank to accommodate all of them comfortably. You should also try to keep more males than females, as this will increase the odds of successful mating.

The challenge on your end is to sex your goldfish correctly. Otherwise, obviously, you aren’t going to get very far.

Sexing is difficult, but generally not beyond these simple measures:

Body Shape

While not reliable solely on its own, this measure can nonetheless move you in the right direction. Female goldfish generally enter their breeding age, their bodies become heavier, plumper in appearance. Males as a rule do not gain weight in this fashion. They are more often than not on the slimmer side. Females also can look from asymmetrical than males when viewed from the top of the aquarium or pond.

Breeding Stars

Made from very small tubercles, which are small, roundish growths that appear on both plants and animals, these little white dots are well worth seeking out on your goldfish. These growths are made from the same materials as what makes fingernails and hair. When a male is ready for spawning, these dots are going to be easy enough to spot on the scales, pectoral rays, and gill covers. Females can have these spots, but this is considered to be an exceptionally rare event.


Also known as the anus, the vent of the female will start sticking out a little bit, as opposed to the male, when it is ready for spawning. The appearance will be similar to comparing two different belly buttons.


This is perhaps the most important, or at least easiest, indicator of whether or not your goldfish are ready for breeding. The males will start chasing the females around the tank. You will notice this when they start shoving their heads inside the tails of the female to shove them all around the aquarium. It is not uncommon to see multiple males in pursuit of a single female.

How Do I Get My Goldfish Ready For Breeding?

Once you know for certain that they are in the breeding period, and once you are confident of their respective genders, you can get them ready for the actual breeding process.

Females must exert a massive amount of emergency for spawning. Males do, too, but the demands are particularly substantial fore the females. They are going to need to bulk up to build enough in the way of fat reserves to be able to withstand producing eggs and milting. Before you actually begin to initiate spawning, you will need to spend approximately six months on the conditioning stage.

The transition from winter to spring in nature is what triggers the spawning behavior. If you keep them in a pond, you will want to keep an eye out for some of the indicators we mentioned above. If you are keeping them in your aquarium, you are going to want to start recreating the winter/spring transition. This is where the heater becomes handy. You’ll want to get the temperature in their tank up to around seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit.

When It’s Time To Actually Breed Your Goldfish

At this point, you are now ready for the actual breeding. This is where things can get particularly challenging. It is very easy for the whole thing to go south, and to find yourself being made to begin the work all over again. Any goldfish breeding expert will tell you that this is a trial and error process. Sometimes, it simply doesn’t work out.

Having said that, you are now at the point in which you can determine which breeding method is going to suit your purposes best.

We’re going to cover the basics of each. As you decide the pros and cons of each, make it a point to do additional research that breaks these methods down step by step.

How To Breed Goldfish: 2 Proven Methods

First things first: Make sure you have the additional tank on hand to keep the fry in.

The two methods, as we discussed earlier, are known as the Natural Method and the Hand-Breeding Method. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses. For example, the Natural Method is going to rely on expected behaviors to a significant degree. It is perhaps the easiest of the two methods, but it stil requires a great deal of concentration.

You have to keep a close eye on breeding behaviors, as well as anything that may go wrong. You will also need to be ready to have the fry transported to your secondary tank. This is also the point in which you will need to make your own spawning mop. We highlighted this above, and it is not difficult to make by any means.

Then we have the Hand-Breeding Method. This method gives you considerably more control over the breeding process. However, as the name of the method implies, you are going to be required to take things into your own hands. This creates unique challenges that you do not find with the Natural Method. As you also may imagine, there are some similarities between these methods. Up to a certain point, there is only but so much you can do.

Here are some examples of when you may need to pursue the Hand-Breeding Method:

  • You only have one male, who is finding it difficult to locate your female.
  • Your window of time for breeding is a very, very limited.
  • The male is not as active as the Natural Method requires him to be.

These are all good reasons for hand-breeding. Furthermore, some simply like the ability to be in more control of the effort. Just keep in mind that all of this requires a delicate touch in the extreme. The same degree of impressive patience is also demanded. Perhaps, even more so.

Regardless of the breeding method you choose, your eventual goal is to find yourself with a 10 or 20-gallon tank full of fry. Caring for them and then culling them are your final two steps in this arduous, thrilling venture.

When It Is Time To Raise Your Fry

The eggs should be hatched in water no deeper than six inches or fifteen centimeters. Extremely gentle aeration is required, and the water should be maintained in the 70-75F range. Your eggs should begin hatching within two to four days. When this happens, keep in mind that you will not need to feed them for several days. This is because they can live off the yolk of the egg sacs.

Once they begin moving on their own, your fry are going to be absolutely starving. You will want to have fresh brine shrimp handy to keep them fed and happy.

Culling Your Fry

Understand that culling your fry, which is to eliminate the ones with undesirable traits, is NOT something that you are required to do. This is something that is done by those who are breeding for profit, simply because it is not cost effective to care for goldfish that no one is likely to buy.

Even so, particularly among those who breed goldfish for pleasure, some opt to keep whatever they wind up with. For many who go through the long journey of breeding goldfish, the idea of intentionally disposing of any of them seems unfathomable. The choice is ultimately yours to make.

15 Most Popular Types of Goldfish + Images

Types of Goldfish

Don’t make the mistake of assuming every type of goldfish is basically the same. While the different goldfish types certainly share a number of similarities, there are in fact some key differences that are well worth keeping in mind. Knowing the specific types of goldfish that you plan to have in your aquarium can ensure you give them the very best of care.

The Benefits Of Owning Goldfish

If you are just starting to gather your resources to set up your aquarium, goldish are likely to be the first possibility you hear about. Their popularity at this point is iconic. While you may think of them as plain, and not terribly exciting, the truth of the matter is that they have so much to offer your aquarium.

For starters, goldfish, which belong to the Cyprinidae family (which includes carps), come in far more colors than many people realize. Beyond the yellows and oranges that everyone is already familiar with, you will find a range of fish that come in an equally dazzling assortment of colors. Furthermore, goldfish are not some tiny animal, growing to just a few inches. The largest known examples grow to a full foot.

They are bright, intelligent, and very attractive additions to any aquarium. As we discuss the many different types of goldfish out there, you are going to discover that for yourself.

Remember: With proper care, your goldfish, depending on the type, can live anywhere from a full decade to 25+ years. Yes, you read that correctly.

Breaking Down The Different Types Of Goldfish

There are essentially two different categories of goldfish. Those are the ones we’re going to be focusing on here today.

Let’s get to our list of the major types of goldfish. Keep in mind there are approximately 200 different breeds of goldfish out there. We don’t have time to cover them all!

Single-Tailed Goldfish

This classification includes some of the most popular types of goldfish found in pet stores. The list extends to Common goldfish, Comet goldfish, Wakin goldfish, and Watonai goldfish. Each have their own unique characteristics and considerations.

Common Goldfish

Common Goldfish

As the name implies, this is the most common and perhaps popular goldfish type on the planet. You can certainly find hundreds of them in just about every pet store in the world. They are defined by their mix of orange and yellow in their coloring.

While they may lack the intricate, bright patterns of other types of goldfish, there is something understated and simple to their build that remains quite lovely in its own singular way.

They have what could be defined as a normal body, yet also one that is very long. Their fins are fairly straightforward, and not as flashy as some of the other types we will cover. They are the most affordable goldfish type, and they are widely considered to be the hardiest example you are going to find.

In other words, they are basically the perfect beginner’s fish. However, they still require the very best of attention and care.

Comets Goldfish

Comet Goldfish

Despite having similar shapes, sizes, and even coloration similar to that of the Common goldfish, there are some elements to Comet goldfish which set them apart from Common.

This is particularly true when we talk about their caudal fin. You can always tell you’re looking at a Comet goldfish because the caudal fin is going to be just about as large as the rest of their body. Also, the similar coloration to Common differs sharply when we look at the blotches of color which can be found at different points on their body.

Because of their love of swimming, some experts suggest Comet goldfish, which have been popular pets for well over a century, do best in ponds. If nothing else, make sure you are putting these guys in a large tank. You may have to go to the 50-gallon range.

Credit: Juan Carlos Palau Díaz

Shubunkin Goldfish

This is the point in which it becomes clear that goldfish are far more colorful and diverse than they sometimes get credit for. These are utterly gorgeous goldfish. They offer some of the most unique patterns and colors to be found anywhere in the wide world of this fish type.

Available in such varieties as Blue, London, American, and Bristol, Shubunkin goldfish are celebrated for their singular patterns and coloration. Their clear, shining scales are quite something to behold. In fact, if you look closely, you will realize their distinctive dark spots are actually beneath the scales themselves!

Wakin Goldfish

This is another profoundly fascinating example of different goldfish types. Despite some marked similarities to Koi, to the point where Wakins are sometimes mistaken for them, this is in fact one of the most characteristic goldfishes we’re going to cover here.

Why do people love the Wakin? Perhaps, it is because they are the only single-tailed goldfish to spotlight two caudal fins, in addition to a pair of anal fins. This gives them an appearance that truly sets them apart from the seemingly endless array of types and breeds.

In fact, some dispute whether or not the Wakin is single-tailed or fancy. Due to the build and other features, it makes more sense to us that they should be seen as a single-tailed example.

Jikin Goldfish

Jikin Goldfish

Here we find another example of a single-tailed goldfish with an almost overwhelming aesthetic appeal. Purely on the basis of their looks, they are another very popular, sought-after goldfish example.

The body type is very similar to that of the Wakin. Both are quite long, and both are notable for the presence of the double fin. However, the Jikin differs sharply on the color side of things. The white body with red fins can make for a very compelling addition to any aquarium. You’ll love the way they “flicker” while swimming about the tank or pond!

Fancy Goldfish

In the other corner, we have double-tailed goldfish. These are generally referred to as “fancy” goldfish. The only reason why anyone really calls them fancy in the first place is because of the presence of that extra fin. Other than that, they really aren’t all that different from single-tailed examples.

Fantail goldfish

Fantail Goldfish

At last, we come to some of the most impressive examples of fancy/double-tailed goldfish you are going to find. It makes sense to that end to start at the top of the list for most people with what is known as the Fantail goldfish.

While looking fairly similar to the Common goldfish, the fancy part comes when you see that they have two tails. This gives them an added flourish which makes them perhaps the most popular fancy goldfish available in pet stores and from breeders.

Much like Common goldfish, they can grow up to a foot in length. They are also among the hardiest examples of fancy goldfish. Nonetheless, to reiterate an earlier point, they still need optimal tank conditions, good food, and so forth.

Telescope Eye Goldfish

Telescope Eye Goldfish

Whether or not the eyes really are the windows to the soul, there is something about a distinctive pair of peepers that can captivate our attention. It is this thought which can be used to perhaps explain the popularity of the Telescope Eye goldfish.

Of all the different breeds and types we can discuss, the Telescope Eye goldfish is perhaps the most unique-looking of them all. Featuring a pair of huge, decidedly round eyes, which stick right out of their head, combined with their small mouths, Telescope Eyes have a look that is memorable, to say the least.

Unfortunately, those noteworthy eyes make them more susceptible to injury. If you aren’t carefully in how you set up their surroundings, your Telescope Eye is very likely to bump into something, damaging those eyes. This creates a higher risk of infection than other types of goldfish. They also have tremendously bad eyesight.

While they can make for a wonderful addition to any aquarium, they do require a relatively more intense approach to their care.

Oranda Goldfish

Oranda Goldfish

For many enthusiasts and goldfish lovers, the Oranda goldfish is one of the most delightful looking in the bunch. They have an expressive face that many seem to fall in love with.

Yet this is not why so many people consider them to be one of the best Fancy goldfish types on the planet. To understand this, you simply have to look at the top of their head. That is where you’re going to find a large, orange hump on the top of its head. Some people like to pretend it’s a little hat.

Regardless of whether or not you do that, there is no question that Orandas are just gorgeous and singular in that beauty. Many recognize the look of the Oranda, if not the actual name.

Available in several colors, the orange hump is just a decorative collection of skin folds.

Pearlscale goldfish

Pearlscale Goldfish

One of the first things you’re going to notice about the Pearlscale goldfish is that they have a hump on the head that is similar to the Oranda. That is really their only similarity. In fact, you’re going to find that a number of different goldfish feature this hump on top of their heads in one form or another.

What makes the Pearlscale goldfish so different are their round bodies, combined with shortish white fins. The large scales you’ll notice have an aesthetic quality that is often compared to jewels. For this reason in particular, they are regarded as some of the prettiest goldfish you can add to your aquarium.

One interesting tidbit: Compared to other types of goldfish you can find, Pearlscale goldfish swim much more slowly than many of the others we’ve covered here.

Credit: Jonathan Leung

Bubble Eye Goldfish

If you thought the Telescope Eye goldfish was a strange-looking customer, then we would venture to say that you haven’t seen anything yet!

The Bubble Eye goldfish is perhaps just too unusual for some newcomers to keeping and caring for goldfish. There is something decidedly comical about the appearance of the massive water sacs which protrude impressively beneath their wide-open eyes. Their coloring is an understated orange, but when you look at pictures of them, you can see why their owners aren’t really concerned about that.

However, as you may have perhaps guessed from looking at them, their distinctiveness comes at a fairly high price. Because of the sheer size of these sacks, Bubble Eye goldfish consistently run the risk of seriously damaging them by running into something. This also means they are more susceptible to infection, which is a possibility we also mentioned with the Telescope Eye.

For this reason alone, they are not considered a good goldfish choice for beginners. Furthermore, for those who do decide to put these in their tank, you will want to make certain to avoid overcrowding accessories and other features. You will also want to keep in mind that their vision is severely impaired, perhaps more than any other example of a goldfish. They also possess mobility issues, when compared to other types.

Many feel that it is simply not fair to these fish to breed them in the first place.

Moor Goldfish

This is a good reminder that despite the name, not all goldfish are actually gold. It just happens to be that a lot of them are. What makes the Moor goldfish so completely fascinating to us is the fact that they do indeed live up to that name. They are completely black in appearance, with the exception of a space under their stomachs.

Specifically bred for this unusual color, the Moor goldfish offers one of the most striking contrasts to the water, and indeed, to everything else in the tank. They are nimble, yet very slow and methodical in how they swim throughout their environment.

You will also want to note that their trailing fins are the same as that of the Telescope goldfish. There is a reason for that. To create the color in the first place, a Moor will often be bred with red Telescopes. This creates a breed that is highly sought after among enthusiasts.

Celestial Eye Goldfish

Celestial Eye Goldfish

With the Celestial Eye goldfish, we once again look to a type of goldfish that has been specifically bred to look a certain way. While these fish are beautiful and unique in appearance, with large, rounded eyes, they also go through many of the same issues as other goldfish with large eyes and/or protruding features.

Their most differing feature from any other goldfish would have to be that their eyes face upwards, rather than sideways (as is the case with Telescope goldfish).

While the large eyes do give them a very satisfying cartoon-like appearance, this look does come with the same price as the other large-eye examples we’ve discussed. This means you’re going to need to take special care with their surroundings. Physical damage can also result in being more prone to various infections and diseases. They are generally orange-red in appearance.

Lionhead Goldfish

We haven’t come even close to exhausting the full assortment of goldfish types that you can find. At this point, we can only hope you appreciate their diversity and other unique characteristics as much as we do.

The Lionhead fancy goldfish is so wild looking to some, they don’t even realize they are indeed looking at another example of a goldfish. They are proof that we still haven’t even run out of the goldfish examples that can completely change the way you think about them.

No dorsal fin. That is one of the first things you will notice. You will also want to pay attention to the impressive growth that can be found around the eyes and face. From a distance, they look like something of a blob. You may not even be able to see the eyes up close.

They don’t move particularly well, due to their odd appearance. To counter this, make sure they always get enough food. This is even more important, if you decide to keep them in the tank with other, different fish.


These are just a few of the most well-known types of goldfish. If you want to start with some great ideas for your tank, we suggest beginning here!

Goldfish Lifespan: How Long Do Goldfish Live?

How Long Do Goldfish Live

One of the biggest misconceptions about Goldfish concerns their lifespan. Chances are, you know more than a couple of people who have owned and lost goldfish after only a few weeks or months. The misconception comes down to the assumption that this is normal. Entirely too many people believe that Goldfish as a rule are doomed to short lifespans.

However, there is so much more to this subject than many realize. For example, there is a long list of factors which can influence the lifespan of a goldfish. Furthermore, the type of goldfish you own can also determine how long it is likely to live.

The truth of the matter is that in many situations, your Goldfish can live for years. In some cases, they can even live happily and healthily for several decades. We’re going to show you what we’re talking about. This will also cover everything you can do to ensure your Goldfish lives the longest, most comfortable life possible.

Why Are My Goldfish Not Living Very Long?

Bred since the 19th century, people love Goldfish for how easy it is to care for them. Unfortunately, a shocking number of people subscribe to the notion that Goldfish are a disposable pet, prone to a short lifespan. These are falsehoods more frequently than many realize. This ranks right up there with the incorrect belief that Goldfish have short memories.

Goldfish belong to a carp family known as Cyprinidae. Among other traits, this family of freshwater fish are known for their ability to live upwards of twenty full years. Yes, you read that correctly.

So, what’s the problem? Why aren’t your goldfish living even a tenth of that average lifespan? There are a few things on this subject you need to keep in mind.

Factors Influencing Goldfish Lifespans: Which Type Do You Have?

Two problems with giving you a rough estimate of how long your Goldfish is going to live:

  1. Different types have different lifespans. In some situations, we’re talking about decades’ worth of difference in the number of years.
  2. Conditions impact Goldfish lifespans dramatically: Does your Goldfish live in a bowl? In an aquarium? What is their average water temperature? What are you feeding them?

Even genetics and breeding conditions can play roles in the average lifespan of your goldfish. In order to give you the best possible estimate, we’re going to need to tackle all of these questions individually.

Let’s start with the different types of Goldfish you can come across.

How Goldfish Type Influences Longevity

Common Goldfish have the longest lifespans of any of the different types you are going to encounter. When properly cared for, they can live as long as twenty-five years. In some cases, they can live for fifteen full years longer than that.

Tied for second are the Shubunkin and Comet goldfish types. Each can live for upwards of fifteen years under the best possible circumstances. You will also want to pay attention to the Oranda goldfish. While they tend to live for around ten years on average, the best examples of the type can live for as long as twenty years.

In fact, most goldfish, under the best efforts towards how to care for goldfish, are going to be able to live for at least a decade, if not more. The only type of goldfish with a potentially and relatively short lifespan are the Fancy goldfish. They may live just five years, compared the others we have mentioned here. On the other hand, they can also live as long as ten years under certain circumstances.

There are also Fantail goldish. These usually live for at least fifteen years. Many live for much longer than that.

At this point, it should be pretty clear to you that the issue does not come down to goldish being stuck with a short lifespan. As it turns out, there are many things you can do that are going to give your goldfish, regardless of the specific type you purchase, the best quality of life possible.

In order to achieve this, you’re going to want to start with how you’re keeping your goldish in the first place.

Why You Should Never Keep Goldfish In A Bowl

The image of the goldfish in a bowl is something almost all of us can bring to mind. It is a visual that can be found or referenced in virtually every type of media imaginable. It can even be used to describe someone who finds themselves living in crowded, overwhelming conditions.

This description is apt for goldfish, as well. The truth of the matter is that goldish should not be permanently kept in a bowl under ANY circumstances. The thing about goldish is that they are very, very hardy fish indeed. This means they can live under fairly diverse settings.

However, this hardiness, combined with other factors, has created a situation in which it is believed goldfish need very little to survive. A bowl is simply too small, with the largest examples usually in the five-gallon range. Like most freshwater fish, goldfish need lots of room to live, eat, play, and potentially breed. Experts say you should start with tanks that are least twenty gallons.

Goldfish have lots of energy. Make sure they have enough space in which to use that energy properly! You should also keep in mind that goldfish produce quite a bit of waste. This isn’t prohibitively so, but a small tank or fish bowl will not be enough to keep this fact in mind. Their waste can impact the water to the point of creating an unhealthy environment. This is why many do not live long.

Another reason is that smaller tanks and bowls also limit their growth. Goldfish need room enough to grow the standard size of anywhere from half to a full foot. Considerably larger than the impression we sometimes have of them as these tiny things.

To summarize: Getting a good-sized tank is literally the most important thing you can do to ensure a long lifespan for your goldfish. There are a few other things you can do, and we’re going to touch on those shortly, but a large tank with good filtration and other features is essential.

What Else Can I Do For My Goldfish?

In case you are wondering: Yes, establishing an actual outdoor pond for your goldfish is the best way to recreate their natural habitat. However, as you may have also guessed, creating your own goldfish pond is something that requires a significant time, money, and energy investment. At the end of the day, you can take our word for the fact that a large tank with the right accessories and other essentials will be just fine for your goldfish.

Let’s wrap things up with a few more tips on how to give your goldfish the best possible degree of attention and care:

  • Remember that because we’re talking about some of the messier examples of ideal fish for an aquarium, you’re going to need to clean the aquarium on a regular basis. Once every couple of weeks should be just fine, as long as you’re taking care of other aspects of their care and maintenance.
  • You should also purchase a water testing kit, so you can always be on top of the levels for stuff like ammonia or nitrogen. Remember also that cleaning the tank entails having the water changed out, as well.
  • The temperature of the tank is another thing you are going to want to keep in mind, as well. One of the most important things to remember is that these are temperate fish. You still have a good range of anywhere between 68F and 74F.
  • It is also of considerable importance to make sure your goldfish have the best possible filter for their needs. External/cannister filters are a good idea, if you plan to keep a large school of a fish that once again, can get pretty messy.
  • The diet of your goldfish is another area that is often neglected due to certain misconceptions. Like any fish you’re planning to keep, you can’t just feed them anything. Zooplankton and insects are eaten by goldfish in the wild. The diet you give your goldfish will need to reflect this as closely as you can manage. This means seeking our goldfish food that provides them with a good mixture of veggies and protein.
  • You should also avoid overcrowding the tank. For example, if you have a 20-gallon tank, you probably shouldn’t have more than 2-4. Some would even go so far as to suggest you should only just have two. Click here for a comprehensive guide to how many goldfish you should keep in your tank. This includes keeping in mind that some types, such as Fancy, require more space than Common goldfish.


It is estimated that there are over 125 different goldfish breeds in the world. Regardless of the specific ones you choose for your home, keep all of the above in mind to ensure they receive the best care.