How Long Do Angelfish Live? (& How To Increase Their Lifespan)

How To Increase angelfish Lifespan
How long do angelfish live

Freshwater angelfish are one of the most beautiful tropical fish species to have at home. However, many aquarists often wonder: “how long do angelfish live?”

Today, we’re going to answer everything that you need to know about the lifespan of angelfish. After going through the following, we’re sure you’ll have no doubts regarding the lifespan of angelfish under different water conditions.

So, let’s not delay any longer and dive right in!

How Long Do Angelfish Live in Captivity?

If provided with the right water conditions and a large aquarium, angelfish can typically live for anywhere between 10-12 years in captivity. Since they are hardy fish that can withstand harsh conditions, angelfish can easily be raised even by beginners.

However, if you’re looking to keep and breed angelfish for the long haul, then you need to provide them with the right amount of care and maintenance. At the same time, the genetic lineage of the angelfish you’ve bought plays a vital role in their lifespan.

How Long do Angelfish Live In The Wild?

In the wild, the lifespan of freshwater angelfish is comparable to that in captivity, though there’s always the risk of predators such as barracudas. Their natural lifespan might be affected in the wild due to diseases such as Ich and Gold dust disease. It’s essential to keep in mind that such diseases might also affect angelfish kept in an aquarium.

Another factor to keep in mind is that wild angelfish have to survive much harsher conditions such as environmental pollution and stress in the wild. They also have to search for their food (instead of being fed), so their lifespan is likely to decrease by a few years.

How Long Can Angelfish Go Without Food?

Freshwater angelfish can go without food for up to 3 days typically. However, if your angelfish is a healthy adult, it can easily go without food for longer periods, often up to two weeks. It all depends on the age, health, and size of the fish you have.

Angelfish are omnivores and can live on a vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian diet. Ideally, you should be providing them with an appropriate mix of the two types of food. How often and what you should feed the fish also depends on their age.

For instance, juvenile angelfish require more live foodstuff, such as baby brine shrimp, and should be fed 3-4 times a day. On the other hand, adult angelfish should be given a balanced mix of veg and non-veg items such as boiled veggies, blood worms, and blackworms twice a day.

How to Increase Your Angelfish Lifespan?

The first factor to keep in mind when trying to improve the angelfish lifespan is the environment they will be put in. If you can provide the fish with balanced conditions in a tank, their lifetime is bound to increase.

Genetics also plays a crucial role in determining the lifespan of any angelfish. An freshwater angelfish that comes from a good, healthy lineage will live longer than those from unhealthy origins. Keeping both the above factors in mind, here are a few things you can try to help your angelfish live longer.

Buy A Healthy Fish

The first step you can take to ensure this is to buy your angelfish from a reputed breeder. This will ensure that the fish have been bred with all possible care, and you’re getting the advantage of a healthy lineage.

When it comes to selecting angelfish, looks matter. Before buying, carefully inspect your angelfish for signs of disease, such as clamped fins, skin ulcers, and mouth rot. Fish with kinks or twists in the anal, dorsal or caudal fins are more prone to diseases.

Make Sure The Tank Is Large Enough

Freshwater angelfish can grow up to 6 inches in height, which makes them a rather tall fish species. This naturally means they need more space to move about and prefer taller tanks. We recommend a 20-gallon tank (at least) for keeping angelfish.

For best results, you can go with a tank that has over a 30-gallon capacity. This way, you can ensure that the angelfish have enough space to swim comfortably and live a stress-free life. Freedom of movement can go a long way towards improving the lifespan of the fish.

Take Care Of The Environment

Any aquarist knows the importance of maintaining the right environment in the tank, especially water quality. The freshwater angelfish is native to the Amazon River and its tributaries, keeping angelfish requires temperatures of about 76°F-82°F, along with a water pH between 6.5 to 7.5. It would be best if you also took care to measure the water hardness, which needs to be in the range of 5° to 13°.

Along with the correct water parameters, angelfish like to live in environments with plants and places to hide. So, we recommend keeping a tank that’s well-planted with broad-leaf plants like Java Fern and Java Moss . You can also use a substrate of a darker color, as this helps to keep the angelfish more relaxed.

Water in the tank should be changed once a week or once every two weeks, depending on water parameter test results. You should also ensure that the tank is properly cleaned and made free of any algal growth.

Ensure High-Quality Food

We’ve already mentioned that angelfish are omnivorous, so they enjoy balanced diets that contain a variety of frozen and live foods, such as brine shrimp, fish flakes, and even fresh veggies. Angelfish mainly prefer lettuce and spinach.

While feeding the fish, you need to ensure that you’re providing them only as much as they need. Angelfish have a tendency to be gluttonous, which means they might try and trick you into overfeeding them.

You can feed angelfish 3-4 times a day in small portions that they can consume in about a minute. If you’re feeding them high-quality fish food, then once a day is enough to keep them healthy and alive.

Caution Against Overfeeding

Overfeeding angelfish can result in their bodies releasing excess toxins into the water in the tank. This can destroy the balance of the water parameters. Also, overfeeding can harm the fish’s internal organs and result in a variety of health problems.

Minimize Stress Factors

The angelfish lifespan can be negatively impacted due to stressful conditions, especially when they are breeding. So, you should take the required steps to eliminate stress factors such as unhealthy water parameters, sound pollution, or small tank size.

Another stressor that you should watch out for is an overcrowded tank. Take care not to put too many fish, especially other angelfish in the community tank. Otherwise, they might nip at each other’s fins.

If you’re in the mood to keep angelfish in a large tank with other types of fish, then make sure you select the right community tank mates. Suitable tank mates for angelfish include mollies, corydoras, catfish, and swordtails, among others. Never go for aggressive species, such as bettas or goldfish.

Angelfish belong to cichlids, and can be aggressive toward one another, especially while protecting a spawn. Make sure you have more females than males if possible.

Monitor for Diseases

Just like humans, angelfish are prone to a variety of diseases. These include Ich (also known as white spot disease), hole-in-the-head disease, dropsy, and mouth fungus. So, you need to acquaint yourself with and regularly check the fish for signs of these problems.

Male Or Female Angelfish-Which Lives Longer?

There’s no proven evidence to suggest that either the male or female angelfish species live longer than the other. Provided with the right conditions, both species can live equally long lives.

However, we did find that angelfish involved in excessive breeding purposes have shorter life spans. Perhaps, this is simply because breeding tires out the fish faster, thus shortening their life period.

How Long Can Angelfish Live Without A Filter?

Without a filter, the water in the aquarium will become toxic faster, which will lead to a compromise of the angelfish’s immune system. This can ultimately lead to diseases or even subsequent death.

According to expert estimates, angelfish can survive a maximum of 12 hours in an aquarium without a water filter.

How Long Can Angelfish Live Without A Heater?

Angelfish have their natural habitats in tropical waters, which means they usually find it hard to live in the absence of a water heater. Colder temperatures go against the natural habitat conditions of the tropical fish and lead to stunted growth and eventual death. The maximum they can live without a heater is one or two weeks.


We hope you now have a good idea of the average lifespan of angelfish. Like any other living being, their life duration also depends on the environmental factors, lineage, and of course, the quality of food they get.

Using the tips and methods mentioned above, you’ll be able to maintain the living conditions of your angelfish better. That way, if you’re doing everything perfectly, you might be able to make angelfish live a few years longer than the average 10-12 years.

Just make sure you learn enough about proper angelfish care and maintenance.

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Guppy Fin Rot 101: Everything You Need to Know (Causes & Treatment)

guppy fin rot

Guppy fin rot is a common and treatable disease that affects a variety of fish, not just guppies! If you spot and treat it early enough, your fish can fully recover and return to a happy state, but if you don’t know your fish has it or you leave it untreated, it can be deadly.

Keep reading this guide to learn all about guppy fin rot, how to treat it, and how to prevent it from returning in the future. 

What is Guppy Fin Rot, and What Are the Causes?

Guppy fin rot is a disease that can affect a number of aquarium fish species, but it’s most common among fish like Betta‘s that have long flowing tails. It can be both a fungal or bacterial infection that is caused by poor water quality or a stressful environment for your fish. 

What are the Severity and Symptoms of Guppy Fin Rot?

There are three levels of severity when it comes to fin rot: Mild, Major, and Severe. Each level has its own set of symptoms, but in general, it’s relatively easy to spot fin rot in your fish if you’re taking the time to inspect them. As a fish owner, knowing the symptoms is essential, so you can identify the severity and whether it’s bacterial or fungal. 

Depending on which type of fin rot your fish is plagued with, they may need a different treatment. Bacterial fin rot causes the fins to look ragged and uneven. Fungal fin rot causes the fins to develop a white edge along the edge of the fins, and the fins appear more even, as opposed to bacterial infections. If you notice white spots, it could be ich instead of fin rot.

Mild Guppy Fin Rot

Mild Fin Rot Symptoms and Treatment In Guppies 

The Symptoms of Mild Fin Rot Include:

  • Signs of irritation
  • The fins look sore and red
  • The tips of the fins may change color to be darker, brown, white, or grey
  • It is localized to the tips of the fins
  • The edges of the fins may begin to look tattered, but it won’t be severe at a mild stage

How To Treat Mild Fin Rot In Guppies:

When fin rot is in the mild stages, it’s much easier to treat than major or severe. Here’s how you should go about treating mild guppy fish fin rot.

  • Firstly, cleaning the gravel at the bottom of the tank is vital. Removing any waste or debris will immediately help the situation because they feed bacteria that is causing the fin rot to occur.
  • Once the tank’s bottom is cleaned out, do a 25% water change, replacing the old water with fresh and clean water.
  • Check your water parameters to ensure they’re all where they should be. Check the pH balance, chlorine, nitrite, temperature, nitrate, and ammonia levels. You can easily pick up a testing kit from your local pet store or purchase one online.
  • Once you’ve ensured the environment is clean and ideal, you can begin to treat your fish. When it comes to minor fin rot, an API Stress Coat or aquarium conditioner typically does the trick. Please consult a professional to ensure you are providing the proper treatment to get your fish back to optimal health as quickly as possible.
  • Follow the label and manufacturer-specified instructions until the guppy fish fin rot starts to clear up.
  • It’s crucial that you remove the carbon filter in the quarantine tank, as it can have a negative impact on the treatment’s effectiveness.

Keep a close watch on your fish to ensure they’re improving and returning to their optimal health.

Major Fin Rot Symptoms and Treatment In Guppies 

If your fish shows signs of major fin rot, it has progressed far enough to become fatal.

The Symptoms of Major Fin Rot Include:

  • Fins are now discolored, likely darkened 
  • Significant parts of the fin may be rotted away
  • Fins are starting to die completely
  • If it’s a fungal infection, the fins will have white fuzz along the edges
  • Chunks of the fin may be falling off in the tank

How To Treat Major Fin Rot In Guppies:

If you’ve missed the initial symptoms of mild fin rot, your fish will likely become more ill, and the severity will increase to major fin rot. Once this has occurred, your treatment plan will be a bit different. Major fin rot will need to be cared for as soon as possible to prevent further infection. 

  • Upon recognizing that your fish has fin rot, you will need to set up a separate quarantine tank for them. Acclimatize them by using water from the old tank. 
  • Once you have the aquarium fish settled in the main tank, you will need to perform a complete water change and clean all the surfaces that you can. This will help prevent the fin rot from returning and prevent tank mates from getting infected as well. 
  • Mix water and aquarium salt and let it dissolve. Once it’s completely dissolved, you can add it to the quarantine tank. Please follow the manufactures instructions for the amount you should use. 
  • While using aquarium salt, you will be required to change the water altogether each day. Ensure you don’t put more than the recommended amount in more than once in the water. 
  • The aquarium salt will tell you the recommended amount of time to do this for, which is typically around a week. 

If you have any questions or concerns, please take your fish to see a professional for their opinion. 

Severe Fin Rot Symptoms and Treatment In Guppies 

If fin rot is left untreated for a couple of weeks, it can develop into severe fin rot or body rot. Severe fin rot is considered extreme, and it’s difficult to save your fish at this time due to the progression of the infection. 

The Symptoms of Severe Fin Rot Include:

  • Fins are entirely eaten away and decayed
  • The body of your fish has started to rot
  • If it’s a fungal infection, there may be white fuzz along the area where the fins previously were
  • Your fish is lethargic
  • Loss of appetite

How To Treat Severe Fin Rot In Guppies:

Once your fish has reached the severe fin rot stage, it’s likely they won’t survive the infection. Treatment is much more intense to try and save your fish once they get body rot. If it’s fungal, you will require a strong medication, like API Pimafix, and if it’s bacterial infection, you’ll need API Furan 2.

  • Firstly, you will need to set up a quarantine tank for your fish, but you will require an air bubbler this time. Some of the medications to treat severe fin rot also impede the tank’s oxygen levels, so an air bubbler will help keep the water oxygenated. 
  • Once your fish is settled in the new tank, you can begin providing medication, depending on which type of infection they have. 
  • Ensure you are performing 100% water changes before providing more medication, as they can become poisoned. 
  • Clean out your other tank thoroughly and replace the water 100% with fresh water. 
  • Inspect your other fish to ensure the infection has not impacted them. 

Once your fish is showing improvements, and the medication cycle is done, you can reintroduce them into your original tank. 

How Do You Treat Guppy Fish Fin Rot?

As the severity of the fin rot increases, the treatment for your fish becomes more extreme. Each level of severity has its own set of treatments, and depending on whether it’s bacterial or fungal will make a difference as well. If you notice something is wrong in the early stages, treatment is easier and more effective.

If you’re dealing with major or severe fin rot, your fish will have a more challenging time making a full recovery. When you notice issues with your fish, it’s always recommended to seek the advice of a trusted professional who can help you get your fish back to optimal health. 

When you begin to treat fin rot, you will want to create a quarantine tank for your infected fish. This helps prevent the spread of fin rot to their tank mates but allows the treatment to be effective for your one fish and not all of them.

As mentioned, fin rot can also be caused by stress, so if the fish has been bullied, putting them in a separate tank prevents fin nipping. 

To learn more about how to care for guppies then check out this article

How to Prevent Fin Rot In Guppies?

Prevention is critical when it comes to common guppy diseases and infections, and thankfully preventing fin rot is reasonably straightforward. Here are ways to prevent fin rot. 

Regular Tank Cleanings

Cleaning your tank regularly prevents a whole host of problems that can affect your fish. Depending on the size of your tank and how many fish you have, you will need to find out a cleaning schedule that works for you. The bigger the tank and the more fish means that you need to clean the tank more often. 

Don’t Overfill Your Tank

Overcrowding is one of the most important ways to prevent fin rot. It increases the risk of infection because of the increased bioload from all the different fish. It also causes unnecessary stress on your fish when you continue to introduce new tank mates without increasing the size of your tank. The more fish you have, the more likely some will become aggressive, which can cause fin nipping. 

Change Water Regularly

Much like cleaning your tank often, you’ll want to ensure you’re performing water changes. The size will impact how often you need to do this. Tanks that are smaller may require water changes every three or four days, while larger tanks may require changing every other week.

guppy fish filter

Use a Quality Filter

Filters are critical when trying to keep your tank clean, as it is constantly filtering out excess debris, ammonia, and waste, which can all cause sickness in fish. Many fish owners try to get away without having a filter when they own guppies, but it’s always recommended to have a quality filter in any fish tank, regardless of size or fish types. 

Provide a High Quality Food

Feeding your fish should include a high-quality diet and the best food you can. Providing them with adequate nutrition is critical, helping boost their immune system, so they can fight off any potential infections that may be introduced to the fish tank. Most fish need a combination of plant matter and meat, and you can give them live food treats every so often.

(Not sure what is the high quality food for guppies? Check out our top picks)

If you Have any Bullies, Remove Them

When fish start to become aggressive, they can become relentless. Any bullies need to be removed as soon as you notice that it’s happening. The more bullying that takes place means the risk for sickness dramatically increases.

If you don’t have a separate tank for a fish that is aggressive, you can try to return them to the pet shop that you got them. If these are not ideal for you, you can provide your fish with some extra hiding spots and try to manage as best you can.

How Contagious is Fin Rot to Tank Mates?

Thankfully, fin rot is not very contagious, but that shouldn’t stop you from acting quickly to prevent fin rot from spreading. Especially if your infected fish moves beyond mild fish rot, it can end up affecting your entire tank. 

Suppose you discover one of your fish has developed fin rot. In that case, you must deep clean your tank and perform a 100% water change to ensure that it does not spread, and do not reintroduce your infected fish until they are entirely better.

By keeping a close eye on your fish and visually inspecting them often, you can feel confident that you’ll catch any fin rot before it becomes a massive problem. 

You May Also Like: Guppy Fish 101: Types, Care, Lifespan, Breeding And Tank Mates


Guppy fin rot can happen to the best of fish owners, but it’s essential to treat it as soon as you can to give your fish the best fighting chance. Now that you’re prepared with the knowledge of what it looks like, the symptoms, how to prevent it and how to treat fin rot, you can effectively keep your fish happy and healthy. 

The best thing you can do for your fish is keeping their environment clean and healthy, ensuring you’re not overstocking your tank, and visually inspecting them often.

Michele Taylor
Michele Taylor

Hello, fellow aquarists! My name is Michele Taylor, and I am a homeschool mother of six children, which includes five boys and one girl. Growing up, our family had a large aquarium with angelfish, goldfish, and lots of different varieties of neons.

Peacock Gudgeon Care: Tank Size, Food, Lifespan, Tank Mates…

Peacock Gudgeon care
Peacock Gudgeon care

Peacock Gudgeons are exquisite fishes that must be present on your radar if you are an aquarist. The Peacock Gudgeons come in vibrant colors and do not require much of your attention. They are the perfect fishes for community fish tanks for the same reason.

In addition, they are not at all aggressive and farewell with almost all the conditions. They are also exceptionally social, which means that they will never be the reason for hampering the harmony of your fish tank. If you are looking forward to getting a peacock gudgeon for yourself, you must read this Peacock Gudgeon care guide till the end so that you can make an informed decision regarding the same.

An Overview Of The Species

The scientific name for Peacock Gudgeons is Tateurndina ocellicauda, Sometimes called Peacock Goby, prominently found in the fresh waters of Papua New Guinea, which are not too deep. You can also find their species in Australia and New Zealand as a subsidiary source.

Peacock Gudgeons have stolen the spotlight from all the other fishes owing to their beautiful and colossal characteristics. There is a high demand for them amongst the buyers. However, most of the fishes that you will find in the market are not sourced from freshwaters. They are bred in a coveted fashion, which can be easily identified through some evident features.

These fishes are a worthy addition to public fish tanks because of their less maintenance. You need to ensure a basic routine, and these fishes will never become a cause for chaos.


If we keep the dynamism on hold, the average lifespan of Peacock Gudgeons estimates to around five years. This is the case when they are held captive but are provided with reasonable care.

There are many other freshwater species that can survive for a longer duration of time, but these fishes enhance the vibe of your fish tank. They are super active and are always willing to interact with the people who are watching them. They might not dwell in the tank for longer durations but will make every second of their presence count.

How Do They Look? (Appearance)

As mentioned before, Peacock Gudgeons are potent enough to out shadow all the other freshwater fishes that are present in the tank. They have long and lean bodies that help them to swim freely in the vast expanses of water. They also have rounded heads, which are enhanced by the presence of a nuchal hump in the case of male gudgeons.

The body color of this species is their primary source of attraction. All of them have different minor quirks while maintaining a steady color stream. Some of the gudgeons have subtle color shades, while some can go dazzling with shades like electric blue. Their stomach area is usually the same hue shade of yellow color.

Their belly’s color is accentuated by the presence of red-colored dots that run laterally in stripe formation. You will also observe a similar pattern on their fins which adds uniformity to their overall demeanor. The presence of this color combination adds to their overall aesthetic.

However, none of these features are responsible for their sobriquet except for the black spot that is present at the base of their slender bodies. This spot is called the eyespot, and if you observe it closely, you will see the resemblance it shares with a peacock.

There are evident distinctions between male and female gudgeons. While males tend to be a bit bigger, the females have more vibrant color combinations. The males also have the nuchal hump that acts as a clear point of distinction.


Peacock gudgeons are not that big when it comes to size. The males usually grow up to 3 inches, whereas females stop around half an inch before the males. They take almost six to eight months to attain this level of maturity, post which they grow a bit more. Some fishes may take more time if they have a distinct genetic arrangement.

Peacock Gudgeon Care

Now that you are all set with the preliminary knowledge of Peacock Gudgeons, you can finally decide on bringing one home. However, there are some essential things that you have to keep in mind before you actually make a move.

The care routine of this species is nothing as compared to other fishes. But this quirk does not give you the free pass to put them in any prevailing condition. You will have to ensure a very neutral and stable environment so that your fishes can live safely without compromising their health.

Tank Size

Since you are already aware of the size of Peacock Goby, you can easily deduce that these fishes do not need a gigantic tank. You can opt for a smaller tank. Gudgeons are not fond of much swimming either, which allows you to fill the tank with decorations.

The minimum tank size we recommend for the Peacock Gudgeon is 15-gallon tank. As you keep on increasing the number of fishes, the size of the tank increases relatively. An essential thing to keep in mind is that you should always prefer buying a bigger tank rather than crowding your fishes in a smaller one. Some people make the mistake of purchasing a ten-gallon tank which troubles them after a few years down the line.

Water Specifications

If you want to ensure the best possible conditions for your peacock gudgeons, try to replicate their natural habitat to the fullest extent. As mentioned previously, gudgeons are usually found in shallow water areas which are not fast-moving. Their ponds typically have a lot of vegetation which keeps the whole thing filled. You could try to do that by adding elements to their fish tank. Some of the other technical specifications are:

  • Water Temperature: 72°F to 79°F (22.2-26.1°C)
  • pH levels: 6 to 7.8 ph ( 7 acts as a great middle-ground)
  • Water Hardness: 5-12 dKH

What To Include In Their Tank

In order to replicate their habitat, you should be aware of the intricacies of their existing habitat. Peacock gudgeons are highly comfortable around vegetation. They are happier, and they have less space to cover while swimming under these conditions.

There is a gigantic variety of hardy plants, including Java Ferns and Anubias, that you can consider putting inside your fish tank. They will enhance the experience of your fishes and will also add to the overall aesthetics of the tank.

These plants serve an additional benefit for fishes that is very hard to interpret. They tend to act as safe zones where these fishes hide during times of distress for them. It is a very intriguing sight, but you will actually see them moving behind these plants on certain specific cues. In general, when this is not happening, the fishes hover around the leaves of the plant to play with other fishes. You must ensure that you get high-quality, hardy plants so that your gudgeons are not able to damage them. There are many varieties of these plants, and any mediocre label will be more than enough for your tank.

You can also include a few rocks and driftwood to increase the excitement for your fishes. The presence of these things will give them a more detailed layout to explore and will keep them happy and busy. You can also choose sand to cover the base as it is the closest it can get to a shallow freshwater area. There is no limit to decorating your tank. You can incorporate almost anything until your pocket supports it heartily.

Filtration And Water Flow

Any filter will work for these fishes as they do not have a very rigid requirement when it comes to filtration. The filter must be potent enough to cover a complete cycle of the tank while maintaining optimum levels of nitrates. The output of the filter is the only element that is worthy of gauging your attention.

As you have read, the swimming experience of Peacock Goby is minimal, and therefore, their skills are not as sharpened as other freshwater fishes. You will have to restrict the flow of output water to the least possible strength so that your fishes can survive without a constant threat.

Breaking the flow of constant current is a great option that you can exercise. There are many ways to do it, like obstructing it with a decorative item or facing it towards the glass. This move will ensure a restricted flow to keep things away from chaos.

Common Possible Diseases

Gudgeons are prone to the same common diseases as the other freshwater fishes. They do not have any particular threats that call for your undivided attention. One of the most common issues that can arise is called Ich.

When the water tank is contaminated, all the fishes tend to give in to this parasite. The only way to evade it is by ensuring that your tank is clean and the filter is working correctly. The treatment of Ich involves seclusion from other fishes and medicines made of copper. The disease is contagious, and therefore you must keep the infected one away. As it is said, one sick fish can make all the fishes sick.

Another prominent ailment that can attack your peacock gudgeons is called the hole in the head disease. This disease is transmitted through the excretion of the fishes and can cause visible cavities and sores on the head of these fishes. This disease multiplies quickly if the tank is not kept sanitized.

There are many other bacterial infections that can infect your fishes. These conditions cause irritation in the entire body, and the only way to get relief is to rub the sore spots. Your decorations will come in handy at this point when the fishes will be looking for surfaces to rub their body.

Food & Diet

The preference for peacock gudgeons falls in the domain of protein-rich live subjects. They are very particular when it comes to their diet, and therefore you will have to pay special attention to that. In their natural habitat, gudgeons survive off the tiny insects and larvae that they find in the shallow waters.

You can opt for live snacks to give them an identical diet. Frozen foods and dry foods also have a reasonable conversion rate as food for these fishes. There are many live options like bloodworms available, and therefore, you will not face a tough time finding these supplements. These live foods will increase their quality of life, and their body colors will get colossal with a proper diet.

How Do They Behave In General?

If your tank is decorated well, your fishes will be very well behaved because they will be busy and happy. They tend to secure an ecosystem for themselves, and that is one of the best features of peacock gudgeons.

However, it would help if you tried to keep them in a group of around 5 to 7 fishes so that they can interact with each other. Getting a single gudgeon might not be the best idea. There might be instances where you will find a slight peck of aggression between the male species but those quarrels are momentary and do not impact their overall bonding.

Tank Mates

In the case of a fish tank, you will be looking forward to inhabiting a lot of different fishes to enhance the visual imagery. Peacock gudgeons are incredibly social, and they do not face a problem in interacting with other fishes.

The only thing you have to keep in mind is the size of other fishes. In the case of a community tank, the mix is not filtered, and therefore you should look out for species that are not strong enough to devour your peacock gudgeons. A good big tank will also minimize this stance from becoming a possibility.

Here is a list of some fishes that have the maximum compatibility with Peacock Gudgeons.

Peacock Gudgeon Breeding

The breeding for peacock gudgeons is as simple as their overall care. They tend to form a pair for breeding, and these pairs can be identified without breaking a sweat. It is always better to move these pairs to separate tanks so that the breeding process can be carried out effectively and safely.

Your fishes will also need a safe and secure place to breed. You can go forth with installing a cave that can be easily created using PVC pipes or any other sturdy substance. This measure will give them an ample amount of privacy and will also speed up the whole process.

In order to start this process, you will have to introduce a fresh change of water. The next step will be to provide your gudgeons with the previously mentioned protein-rich food so that they can be prepared for breeding. Once your male fishes are well fed, they will be ready to breed.

They will start hovering around the cave and will also display their pectoral fins so that the females can get the right cue to move. The male fishes get very pumped up, and they start identifying the females to make a pair.

If the female is also interested in breeding, she will follow the male inside the cavity to conduct the breeding process. The output of this will result in around 50-100 fresh eggs. After laying the eggs, it is unlikely for the female to return back to the cave.

The male gudgeons take complete charge of these eggs by fertilizing them and guarding them against the other fishes. These eggs take around ten days to hatch post which they enter the atmosphere of the tank. Most male fishes do not stick around for longer durations so that the baby fishes get strong enough to take care of their own selves.

These baby fishes grow at a languid pace, and therefore, you will have to ensure that they get proper food in a powdered way. You should also look out for their safety as baby gudgeons are very weak and are not sharp enough to swim away from the bigger fishes.

In A Nutshell

If you have reached here, you are all set with the necessary information that is required before getting a peacock gudgeon home. Make the necessary arrangements for the fish tank and water so that you do not face a tough time in the end.

It would be best if you kept this article handy so that you have all the desired information at the convenience of a single touch. These points are crafted after extensive research so that you can use them as an aid whenever there is a need.

Gudgeons are beautiful fishes that will add more vividness to your entire tank. Get them at the earliest and see them grow into colorful fishes!

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Our Comprehensive Betta Fish Feeding Guide Is Here!

betta fish feeding guide
betta fish feeding guide

One of the nice things about bettas, beyond their impressive, varied beauty and charming little personalities, are their eating habits. Betta fish feeding is not complicated or even particularly expensive. You will find that there are a ton of live food and other possibilities to explore.

Feeding Your Bettas Properly

At the same time, there are also a few things you want to keep in mind with feeding them properly. This includes how often you should feed betta fish, the best foods for betta fish, and how much you should be giving them per serving.

We’ve got you covered on all of these fronts, as well as many others. Whether you want to optimize the diet of the bettas you currently own, or if you’re planning to purchase bettas in the near future, there are a few important things you’ll want to keep in mind.

Why Is This So Important?

Betta fish are pretty hardy fish, at the end of the day. They can handle a decent temperature range, and can go along well enough with a wide variety of potential roommates. This is provided you’re giving everything your betta will need to be comfortable and happy.

A big part of betta fish care comes down to making sure they are getting the very best diet possible. So much of a betta’s health is tied into what it is eating, as well as how often it is eating. You want to give them a good variety of foods, and you want to also be sure you’re giving them the best food possible.

Maintaining a reliable feeding schedule is also crucial to their health. Not eating enough, as well as overeating, can leave your betta stressed out, prone to illness, and just not very happy in general.

To that end, we’re going to break down the essentials. You’re going to need to know what your bettas like to eat, when you should feed them, and why it’s important to give them a nice variety of snacks.

What Do Betta Fish Eat?

Two things about bettas and diet:

  1. Betta fish are omnivores. This means they can enjoy a varied diet of meat, live animals, and vegetation.
  2. However, while you can feed them non-meat/live foods, they shouldn’t rely on that. They need a lot of protein. To that end, insects and larvae are widely considered to be among the best foods for bettas. We’ll get into that shortly.

Pellet-based products should only be used sparingly. Furthermore, anything you purchase in this arena should contain 40% or more in protein. Ideally more.

Also, make sure you’re purchasing betta fish food that is designed with bettas in mind. In this regard, we mean that the food takes into account that bettas are traditionally surface-eaters.

We’re going to offer some specific betta food suggestions shortly. For now, let’s take a closer look at exactly what needs to be in the betta food you purchase.

What Should I Specifically Look For In The Best Betta Fish Food?

A shorter digestive tract, which is what you have with bettas, means less time to process food. This in turn means that stuff with a lot of filler material, such as corn and wheat, are not going to be ideal for your bettas under any circumstances.

Unfortunately, cheap pellet and flake products abound. Pay close attention to the ingredients when buying something new. You can also keep in mind that you definitely tend to get what you pay for with betta fish food. As a general rule, it is wise to stay away from the particularly cheap products.

Among other things, poor diet from low-quality food can lead to bloating in your betta.

Avoid foods that are NOT designed with bettas in mind AT ALL COSTS. We cannot say this often enough! In addition to bloating, you can also give your betta a bad case of constipation.

Ideal ingredients for betta fish foods are pretty easy to spot:

  • Protein: This is far and away the most important ingredient in any betta fish food you might purchase. This isn’t the only thing your betta needs, but it’s at the top of the list for sure!
  • Fat: This is why some owners prefer feeding their betta live whenever possible. Fat is almost as important as protein.
  • Fiber: The short digestive tracts means your betta needs to process stuff quickly. A good amount of fiber is going to be essential to that end.
  • Phosphorus
  • Carbohydrates
  • Calcium

As you may have guessed, you also want to feed your bettas food that contains plenty of vitamins, as well. Some of the vitamins to look out for includes A, E, K, D3, B1-3, B5-6, B12, M, H, and of course vitamin C.

This may seem like a lot to keep in mind. However, when it comes to the options for feeding your bettas, you’re going to find that it’s actually easy to find reliable retailers offering quality products.

Furthermore, when you know specifically what betta fish like to eat, shopping won’t be a challenge. Everything we’re going to cover below, as we get into other topics like how often you should be feeding them, will give you a clear idea of the many foods available for bettas.

A Few More Things About What Betta Fish Eat

Before we discuss frequency and schedule in feeding your betta fish, let’s take a closer look at your options, keeping in mind all of the ingredients we listed above. Protein should be the most prominent ingredient, and it should be the first one listed on any product you buy.

One more thing: Bettas can be very picky eaters! Don’t panic, but remember that the happiest bettas tend to be the ones who enjoy the most varied possible diet. This extends to choosing among your options for freeze-dried betta food, fish flakes, and live/frozen options.

At the end of the day, you’re probably going to opt for a rotating mix of at least two of those categories, if not all three. Even so, each has its own strengths, weaknesses, and specific products to check out.

Option 1: Freeze-Dried Betta Fish Food

Many consider freeze-dried to be the most important of the three options we’re going to discuss. Why? Because it represents the best compromise between live/frozen and flake products. These foods can give your bettas a formidable range of the ingredients we’ve discussed.

Freeze-dried betta food also benefits from being free of any potential parasites

However, freeze-dried betta will contain at least some filler. This is because as a freeze-dried food, it has been stripped moisture for safe transport and packaging. All you have to do to offset much of that filler is to rehydrate the food with aquarium water. This only needs to be done for a few minutes.

Do not feed your betta solely freeze-dried food. While important for their diet, feeding them exclusively freeze-dried food can lead to some of those bloating and constipation issues we discussed earlier.

This is where the value of a balanced diet becomes apparent. We’re to cover the basics of live/frozen and flake foods. Before we get to that, here are some of the top freeze-dried betta fish foods on the market:

  • San Francisco Bay Brand: One of the most popular freeze-dried options on the market, San Francisco Bay Brand offers simple feeding instructions, plenty of delicious and beneficial ingredients, and an extremely high concentration of protein. It’s a winner across the board.
  • Tetra BloodWorms: Tetra is one of the largest brand names for aquarium foods and products to be found anywhere. Part of that is because they really do seem consistently committed to high-quality products. Containing relatively few fillers and other undesirable ingredients, their BloodWorms freeze-dried product is a perfect treat for bettas.

Option 2: Betta Fish Flakes

While fish flakes are not everyone’s first choice, and while you should definitely avoid feeding bettas flakes that are designed for other fish, there are specially-formulated options available that can make for a good supplement to betta’s diet.

Omega One Betta Buffet Flakes is widely considered the very best flake food for bettas you’re going to find.

Just keep in mind that some bettas flat-out will not eat flakes. If this is the case, don’t worry!

You should also make sure to remove any uneaten flakes from the tank after feeding.

Option 3: Live/Frozen Betta Fish Food

If you want to recreate the natural environment and lifestyle for your betta as closely as possible, sourcing live/frozen betta fish foods from reliable vendors will be very effective to that end. The highest offering of vitamins and minerals, as well as the least amount of potential filler, means giving your bettas the full culinary benefits they require.

Some of the top live betta fish options include:

At the same time, don’t forget that live or even just frozen food sources can also come with bacteria and various parasites. Make absolutely certain you are feeding your betta from the most reliable sources, but understand the threat of parasites will always be prevalent.

Do not feed your bettas any live foods you have caught yourself. This measure can be fraught with peril. Using reliable vendors means trusting individuals who have gone out of their way to source the finest and safest products possible.

Click here for a complete list of live betta fish foods you can try.

How Often Do You Feed A Betta Fish?

Knowing how much to feed your betta fish is important. Knowing this will make it easy enough to establish and maintain the best schedule for feeding your betta fish.

Overfeeding can cause health issues, pollute your aquarium’s waters, and even increase the bioload that is being forced upon your tank’s filtration system. The directions on any products should be fine, but you still want to keep an eye on your bettas.

If you notice any odd behavior, such as poor appetite or lethargy, stop feeding your betta the product in question immediately.

Many experts suggest one or two small feedings per day. This can be done anywhere from five to six days in any given week. You don’t have to give them a lot. They will only need enough food to last them for a minute or so.

Why 5-6 days per week? What about the other day or days? At least once a week, if you do feed your betta flakes or freeze-dried foods, don’t give them anything at all.

No, this is not going to be cruel to your betta. Not in the least. Trust me, when we promise you in no uncertain terms that fasting just one day a week will not cause any discomfort for your betta. What it will do is give them a little extra time to process what they’re eating. In our opinion, combined with a balanced/varied diet, this is one of the best ways to avoid bloating or other overfeeding issues.

Remember, and this is true of many types of aquarium fish: Overfeeding doesn’t have to be something you do deliberately. Because of their tracts, many aquarium fish need to be fed only very small amounts of foods. This is true of bettas. Treats should be administered even more sparingly.

Suggested Betta Fish Feeding Schedule

Let’s wrap things up with our suggested betta fish feeding schedule. Tweak this schedule as needed, but you’ll find that many owners stick to something along these lines: (Per betta fish)

  • Mondays: 3-4 pieces of live/frozen or even freeze-dried betta foods. Once or twice per day.
  • Tuesdays: 2-4 betta fish pellets. Once or twice per day.
  • Wednesdays: 2-4 betta fish pellets. Once or twice per day.
  • Thursday: 3-4 pieces of live/frozen or even freeze-dried betta foods. Once or twice per day.
  • Friday: 2-4 betta fish pellets. Once or twice per day.
  • Saturday: 2-4 betta fish pellets. Once or twice per day.

Start with one serving per day, if you have any concerns. Also, make Sunday the day you fast your betta.

Conclusion: A Closer Look At How Much You Should Feed Your Betta Fish

A couple of points to consider with the schedule we’ve outlined for you above:

  • By “pellets” we refer to individual pellets in the product you purchase. Confer with the instructions of whatever you have purchased when creating a schedule along the lines of what we’ve mentioned above.
  • By “pieces”, we mean enough to hit the sweet spot for how much bettas should eat in a single feeding. You should try to hit approximately 1.8 grams worth of food per feeding. This is true of anything you’re feeding them. Some bettas will need more. Some will need less. Nonetheless, you can always start with the minimum of 1.8 grams per feeding.

One of the frustrating aspects of knowing how much to feed a betta fish is that there really isn’t a universal truth for every betta. The numbers and routines we’ve suggested here should be taken as guidance. You may try the above schedule, and find that it works for you flawlessly.

On the other hand, you may have to make some tweaks. One of the most important general rules about betta fish care is to make certain you are paying close attention to them as much as possible. This is particularly true when it comes to adapting them to a feeding schedule.

We hope this guide has been helpful!


Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Betta Glass Surfing: A Cause For Concern?

Betta Glass Surfing
Betta Glass Surfing

While not entirely unique to betta fish, the practice of what is known as “betta glass surfing” seems to be particularly prevalent among betta owners. In a nutshell, glass surfing occurs when your betta has started to pace along the glass of the aquarium. They will be doing this quickly, but also repeatedly. The result is a pattern that can strike you as extremely troubling.

There is no doubt that glass surfing can be a sign that something is wrong with your betta fish. The reason for why your betta is glass surfing is also something that can vary from one fish to the next. Some form of distress is obviously the culprit. What you want to do then is figure out how to stop a betta fish from glass surfing.

Not to worry. We’ve come up with some tips that can go a long way towards alleviating the cause of your betta’s anxiety.

What Exactly Is Betta Glass Surfing?

As we mentioned before, glass surfing involves a very specific behavior. There are several potential causes you will want to learn about. However, it is good to keep in mind that regardless of the reason, if your betta is pacing quickly up and down a specific area of glass, something is almost certainly wrong.

You also want to address as quickly as possible. In many situations, if your betta is engaging in glass surfing, there is a good chance that they are also not eating, due to stress. If the glass surfing continues unabated, your betta’s health can very quickly take a turn for the worse.

Let’s get into some of the main causes of betta glass surfing. From there, we can move into cause-specific solutions that should do the trick.

Cause #1: The Condition Of The Water Is Poor

This is one of the most common reasons for betta glass surfing. Water temperature is a big deal for bettas. Yes, they are indeed hardy enough to withstand temperatures ranging between seventy-six- and eighty-five-degrees Fahrenheit. However, most bettas seem to do best at 78F.

In other words, if your betta is engaging in glass surfing, check your tank temperature. It may need an adjustment. Cold water can make them lethargic, erratic, or a disconcerting mix of the two.

The water can also be poor due to aquarium maintenance neglect. You definitely want to keep too much waste and debris from accumulating, as well as making sure the ammonia levels do not get too high. Dangerous ammonia levels can utterly and completely devastate your aquarium. Chemicals can build up in the water, if you aren’t taking care of things on a regular basis.

Basic maintenance measures are going to go a long way towards preventing behaviors such as glass surfing. While the quality of the water is not the only factor that can lead to this action, we would suggest taking care of the water first.

If this doesn’t alleviate the situation, there are several more things you are going to want to keep in mind.

Cause #2: Other Issues With The Tank

Beyond heating and keeping the tank properly maintained, there are a few other possibilities with your aquarium that we are going to want to take a look at.

For example, let’s talk about the following potential hazards:

  • The tank is too small: While companies and retailers do sell betta fish tanks that are 5 gallons or even less, it is not considered a good idea to get one in this range. Even a single betta fish needs at least 10-15 gallons to be comfortable. Some would argue even more. If you’re going to have other fish in the tank, including other bettas, you are going to need to adjust the size of your tank accordingly.
  • The tank mates are not appropriate for bettas: While the list of fish that get along with bettas is perhaps longer than you might think, you still shouldn’t consider any tankmate for your betta without careful research. The right tankmates can coexist with your bettas just fine. The wrong tankmates can lead to aggression issues and stress, which in turn can lead to behaviors such as glass surfing. Also, remember that if your tank is too small for your overall aquarium, that is going to create some problems, as well.

As you can see, one influences the other pretty distinctly. Make sure you have the right tankmates for your bettas, if you’re going to have any at all. Combine this with making sure you have an aquarium large enough to accommodate everyone.

Cause #3: Your Betta Sees Its Reflection

The third major cause we’re going to discuss tonight involves the peculiar, yet fairly common phenomenon of your betta catching its own reflection. Remember that betta fish have a well-established reputation for being highly territorial fish.

In other words, if they catch that reflection in the glass of the tank, your betta will very likely try to chase off the intruder. You can begin to see where this becomes problematic!

If your betta fish is trying to scare off this non-existent advisory, there is a good chance that they are also going to be flaring. The flaring behavior itself is not a problem, unless they keep doing it over and over again. That builds up their stress levels, which in turn can cause health issues.

While dealing with a reflection issue can be annoying, we have assembled a few suggestions:

  • Dim the lights: This is considered to be one of the most effective ways of preventing your betta from glass surfing and/or flaring. The tank doesn’t have to be completely darkened. You just want it to be little darker than the room your aquarium is in.
  • Purchase a backdrop: This is another simple solution that can work wonders. We have an exceptional range available, but you can buy them almost anywhere.
  • Plants: Invest in some of the best plants for bettas. Set them up around the sides of the tank.

We hope this helps you address your betta glass surfing!

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Can Neon Tetra and Betta Live Together? (A Complete Guide)

Neon Tetras And Bettas
Neon Tetras And Bettas

Where it concerns the subject of good tank mates for betta fish, you want to understand that this is never going to be an exact science. This means that even though neon tetras are considered to be exceptional as one of the breeds that can live with bettas, we can’t guarantee that you won’t have any problems with neon tetra and betta in same tank.

Some bettas have strong personalities around some of their less-desirable traits, such as being territorial, or overly aggressive with other species of fish.

Can Neon Tetra and Betta Really Get Along?

We aren’t out to ruin your fun. When it comes to fish that get along with bettas, neon tetras have an exceptional track record. The odds that everyone will get along just fine are pretty good.

Nonetheless, having said that, a lot of your success is going to depend on making sure you take the right steps.

You might be skeptical that these two can get along in the first place. After all, bettas are pretty feisty, but the neon tetra is no slouch in this department either. Neon tetras can in fact be quite the little biters in their own right. It is difficult to imagine they are going to be very compatible at all.

Yet they are. However, beginning with making sure you buy the right tank, there are several ways to ensure you are successful in co-habitation.

Buying The Perfect Tank For Neon Tetras and Betta

One of the nicest things about bringing neon tetra and betta together is that you don’t have to do anything significant for one or the other, in terms of setting up ideal tank conditions for both. The same basic setup you would create for bettas will basically work for neon tetras, as well.

What matters most with the tank is that it’s the right size for both. We linked to some 20-gallon tanks above. While you can probably get away with 15 gallons well enough, most experts would call this a bad idea. As is the case for both fish, bigger is always going to be better. Our advice is to start with AT LEAST a 20-gallon tank. Anything less is quite frankly a waste of time.

Not only a waste of time, but also dangerous for the fish. At best, they’re going to be unhappy. At worst, they will become increasingly aggressive with one another. This creates the very real possibility that one or more fish will die. No one wants that!

One of the biggest differences between these two types of fish is the fact that neon tetras generally prefer to swim along the top of the tank, whereas bettas probably won’t. To that end, you want to make sure you are giving them a tank that is going to have a good height to it, as well.

You also want to give them a good variety of plants. Live is always the best way to go, and there are some great options for both neon tetras and betta fish. However, silk plants can work virtually just as well. 

Anything in the tank is going to be fine for accessories and playthings, as well as good hiding spots. However, make sure you aren’t buying anything with jagged surfaces or sharp edges. Either type of fish could hurt themselves.

You’ve got the right tank at this point. The next step is going to be to make sure you’re going to be giving the bettas and neon tetras the best possible environment. This will prove to be fairly straightforward, but there are still a few things you’re going to want to keep in mind.

You might also be interested in: 50+ Betta Fish Tank Mates

Tank Conditions For Neon Tetra and Betta

We’ve covered the types of plants you’re going to want to put in the tank, as well as which décor items to avoid. As long as you make sure they have lots to do and play with, your bettas and neon tetras should be quite content on this front.

Lighting is also important. One of the reasons why bettas and neon tetras get along is because they both like dimmer lighting setups for entirely different reasons. Bettas are okay with a well-lit tank. However, a little dimmer is preferred because it gives them greater hiding abilities. Neon tetras like dim lighting because it resembles their natural environment.

While more sensitive to dramatic changes in the water conditions than bettas, neon tetras by and large are generally hardier as a species. They can handle a pH setting somewhere between 5 and 7.5. By comparison, bettas need to be around a 7. Temperature-wise, neon tetras can handle conditions that are anywhere between 68- and 82-degrees Fahrenheit. The sweet spot for bettas is around 78F, but they can be okay anywhere between 76 and 82.

It will be up to you to strike the right balance that will make everyone happy. This is also something that can be applied to the food you feed them.

What Is The Best Way To Feed Neon Tetra and Betta

This is one of the areas in which it is definitely a good idea to observe and respect the differences between betta fish. Why? Because bettas are carnivores, whereas neon tetras are omnivores. That means that while your neon tetras can eat anything bettas eat, the same does not hold true for bettas and whatever you may feed your neon tetras.

It really is a good idea to just keep them on their own unique respective diets. This is not particularly expensive or difficult to do:

Bettas have to eat something that came from a live animal. This is what needs to drive your decision to buy the best food for betta fish. Live is best, and there are options to that end such as bloodworms and brine shrimp.

Keeping up a good variety, while avoiding cheap food filled with water and useless additives, will keep them healthy and happy. Daphnia is another good live food option. Pellet foods are okay, too, but you need to make sure they come from the highest possible quality.

While your neon tetra can indeed eat something that was meant for bettas, you should still try to give them something that is particular to the species. Flakes of exceptional quality are considered to be the wisest choice for neon tetras.

All of the live options we mentioned for betta fish will be fine for these guys, too. Mosquito larvae would be another good example of something both will eat.

If you give them bloodworms, do this sparingly. If they eat too many of these, they can become constipated. If you want to know about bloodworms for betta fish then click here.

How To Bring The Neon Tetra and Betta Together

We’ve got a few more tips and suggestions for you. Let’s start with the actual process of adding the neon tetras to the tank. Or should you add the betta fish first? Which one is best?

The rule of thumb here is almost always that neon tetras should be added to a space first. By and large, the neon tetra is a fairly peaceful fish. This is particularly true when you compare them to the betta fish. They just aren’t as territorial as bettas.

In other words, if you add neon tetras to a tank with bettas already in place, you are probably going to have some problems. The betta has already established the entire aquarium as their territory. Yes, you read that correctly. Adding any other fish to the proceedings can create problems at that point. By comparison, if you put your bettas in the tank after the neon tetras, the betta will make do with a much smaller parcel of space for themselves.

This will not be so little space as to make them miserable. This is why we really want to drive home the value of making sure everyone has plenty of room to play in the tank. Your betta will adjust without any significant issues, as long as they have enough room. You should still keep an eye on them though, particularly in the beginning

Before we wrap things up, we have a few more suggestions you’ll want to keep in mind:

  • Consider female bettas: As a rule, male bettas tend to be much more aggressive than the females. If you want to hedge your bets for a harmonious tank, consider adding only females. Their fins aren’t as flashy either, so the odds of fin-nipping from your neon tetras are pretty low.
  • A well-adjusted betta: You can also try to choose a betta which already has experience living among other fish.

More tetras than bettas: We would also suggest having a full school of neon tetras to your 1-2 bettas. You really don’t want to have a bunch of bettas. One or two is best. A large group of neon tetras can ensure no one gets too stressed out. Neon tetras are a good deal more social than bettas, so it makes sense to give them as much companionship as possible.

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Daphnia for Betta Fish: Everything You’ve Wanted to Know

Daphnia for Betta Fish
Daphnia for Betta Fish

Daphnia is more than just one of the ways to treat betta constipation. It can also make for a nice treat, whenever you want to give them something nice.

Despite the exotic-sounding name, daphnia is actually a fairly common product. It is not only one of the most popular snacks for certain pets, but it is also one of the healthiest. Indeed, when we’re talking about the best things to feed betta fish, daphnia is widely considered to be one of the top healthy foods for bettas to be found anywhere.

To start, when it comes to the benefits of daphnia for betta fish, we need to first understand why a varied diet is a good idea for your bettas in the first place.

What Exactly Is Daphnia?

In a nutshell, daphnia refers to aquatic fleas. When consumed by a betta fish, they can function as a digestive aid. In addition to offering several key nutritional benefits, daphnia can also act as a laxative. While it’s not something you want to feed them in large quantities, or even every day, it can be a great way to supplement your betta’s main source of diet.

Most betta love to eat daphnia, so you may want to have some on hand. We’re going to take you through a deeper look at its many benefits, while also telling you where you can find some of the best examples for your bettas.

Is Daphnia Good for Bettas?

Whether frozen or live, daphnia offers a number of benefits, as we’ve touched on. It really just comes down to the fact that daphnia is a powerful digestive tool for bettas. Not only does this mean they can eat and process their regular feedings more effectively, but it also means they’re going to have more energy.

Don’t forget either that daphnia comes packed with protein. This is where the energy benefit of daphnia for bettas can really come into play. You definitely want your betta to have lots of natural energy to play and explore.

Daphnia is exactly the sort of thing your bettas would eat in the wild. That makes them a perfect choice for your aquarium. Other fish like to eat them, too. Most freshwater fish will probably either eat them, with no significant consequence, or simply ignore them. However, they are particularly appealing to your betta fish.

Live Or Frozen Daphnia: What Daphnia Is Best?

The next step is to decide whether to feed them frozen daphnia or live daphnia. Each have their own benefits and potential drawbacks. Some would suggest keeping both on hand, but this strikes us as being a bit much.

Ultimately, you should just weigh the pros and cons of frozen and live daphnia, and make your decision from there.

Live Daphnia

Live daphnia is exactly what it sounds like. It means buying these aquatic fleas in their living state, and then adding them to your aquarium. As we highlighted above, there are several online resources available from which to purchase living daphnia for betta fish. Naturally, we would advise playing close attention to the vendor you’re buying from. Make sure you’re purchasing them from a reliable source.

Price-wise, there isn’t really a significance difference between live daphnia and the freeze-dried option. As you may have already guessed, live daphnia tends to be a little higher in cost, but this is generally just a few (less than ten) dollars.

If you don’t want to buy them online, keep in mind that it’s not all that difficult to breed daphnia on your own. However, it obviously still requires an investment of time and resources. It certainly becomes cost-effective over time, if you’re serious about always having some around to benefit your betta.

Easy to breed

One of the reasons why live daphnia are relatively cheap is because they are very, very easy to breed. Do some research, and you’ll see what we’re talking about. Even in the sense that it takes time and a little money, these investments are still considerably minor, compared to other breeding-for-betta-food possibilities.

You can find them just about anywhere

We’ll touch on the possibility of daphnia disease and betta fish later. For now, understand that while you can find them virtually everywhere, and while this is a keen benefit in terms of cost and so forth, you don’t want to just scoop some out of the water.

The thrill of the hunt: No, we’re not kidding

Your bettas are very intelligent freshwater fish. As such, they like to be challenged, and they require ongoing stimulation to keep them as happy as can be. A great way to hit those buttons without putting in a ton of effort is to put live daphnia in the tank. Your bettas will love hunting them!

As we mentioned before, it’s not a great idea to just fish some daphnia out of a nearby source. The potential for parasites increases in these situations. In fact, daphnia will always come with an extremely miniscule possibility of giving your bettas a parasite. This should NOT deter you from feeding it to them, unless even the smallest possibility of risk is enough for you to reconsider.

Ask any betta fish expert or veterinary doctor with experience. They will tell you that the odds of your bettas getting a parasite from daphnia that comes from a reliable source are very, very, very low.

That said, it is still worth keeping in mind.


The parasites

We’ve discussed this. If you suspect your betta has a parasite, here’s what you need to keep in mind. To reiterate, the odds of your betta contracting a parasite from reliable daphnia sources are incredibly low.


Depending upon where the daphnia are coming from, you may have to contend with the presence of chemicals.

Easier to overfeed

Like any betta fish food, you always run the risk of unintentionally overfeeding them. Given the extreme smallness of daphnia, it is easy to assume it’s okay to give your betta fish a bunch. In fact, you should only give them four to six daphnia per feeding.

(Have you ever thought about feeding your betta bloodworms?)

Freeze-Dried Daphnia For Bettas

The convenience and straightforwardness of freeze-dried daphnia cannot be denied. It is also considerably easier to find them in stores and online.

Do your bettas get the same amount of nutritional satisfaction as live daphnia? Mostly. While not quite on the same level as live daphnia, they do give your bettas most of the nutritional benefits that we’ve been discussing. Furthermore, the best freeze-dried daphnia will offer texture and color that will be attractive to your bettas.


No parasites

With freeze-dried daphnia and parasites, you don’t have a thing to worry about. All you need to do is feed them, and make sure you are following the directions for feeding them.

Medicine carrying

Giving your betta fish medicine can be a serious pain. One of your best bets for ensuring they’re getting the care they need is to use something else as a carrier. There are a few options to that end, but many betta owners feel that daphnia is the most effective and pleasant option for their bettas.

Your bettas will still like it

At the end of the day, while you don’t get the benefit of giving your betta fish something to chase, you still get something that gives them a number of tangible benefits, while still coming packaged as something they will like.

Again, make sure to follow all instructions associated with whatever you wind up buying for your betta fish. Overfeeding them can lead to bloating, constipation, and create a variety of conditions for ill-health.


The potential for overfeeding is just one of the possible downsides of freeze-dried betta fish you’re going to want to keep in mind:

  • Feeding the daphnia incorrectly – you don’t want to give your betta the daphnia on a regular basis. In other words, don’t feed them every single day.
  • Swelling: You should also be aware that it’s not a good idea to simply drop the freeze-dried daphnia in the tank. The pieces can swell in their stomach, and cause all sorts of health issues. Feed them approximately 1.8 grams a day, and be sure to soak them in water for approximately fifteen minutes beforehand.

Frozen Daphnia For Bettas

No, we did not forget about the possibility of buying frozen daphnia, which is different from freeze-dried daphnia.

Available in cube form, they should be cut up into smaller portions before giving them to your betta. What you don’t want to do is give them these treats in complete cube form. Take a small piece from cube, make it even smaller, and wait about fifteen minutes for the defrosting to set in.

This is perhaps the best way to get live daphnia to your betta with the least amount of fuss. Raising them on your own can take time, and even buying live options from a retailer means buying very small quantities, which can send your long-term costs rising.


  • You’re getting the same benefits as what you can find with live. More to the point than what you get with freeze-dried products.
  • You don’t have to worry about parasites. The process of bringing frozen daphnia to market all but eradicates the possibility of having this happen.
  • You will also find that they are very easy indeed to clean and handle. They also keep for an extremely long time.


The biggest downside to frozen daphnia once again points to the possibility of feeding them too much without meaning to. This is why we suggest cutting up the cubes into smaller pieces, and then cutting them up into smaller pieces from there. Any products you purchase will likely come with complete directions.

Make sure to defrost them completely, as well. Dropping them in frozen won’t be very appealing or helpful to your betta fish at all.


Yes, you can feed daphnia to your betta fish fry, if you’re looking for something healthy and tasty to give them. Wait 3-4 weeks before feeding them, and opt for the frozen kind, as they offer the best benefits.

With all of this information in your corner, figuring out the best daphnia to feed your betta fish shouldn’t be difficult at all.

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Pregnant Goldfish Care: How to Tell If a Goldfish is Pregnant

pregnant goldfish
pregnant goldfish

Is your goldfish pregnant? Can you expect them to lay some eggs in the not-too-distant future?


While noticeable weight gain on a goldfish is one of the biggest signs a goldfish is pregnant (more on that later), it isn’t a guarantee. There are in fact several potential indicators that your goldfish is expecting.

We’re going to cover the biggest tell-tale symptoms of a pregnant goldfish. We can also cover some basic care tips to help you. These tips can be helpful for both those who are not anticipating a pregnant goldfish, as well as those who are actively trying to breed them.

How to Tell If a Goldfish is Pregnant?

First of all, it is important to make a distinction here: While we are using the term pregnant goldfish to describe goldfish who are potentially about to lay some eggs, they are not actually pregnant in the technical sense. This is because the animals that can actually get pregnant are those which partake in live births.

Goldfish don’t. However, they can become full of unfertilized eggs. What happens after that can depend on a variety of different factors. It starts with knowing exactly what to look for in goldfish that are on the verge of breeding.

At the end of the day, that chubbiness could simply be due to the fact that your goldfish is overweight!

Symptom #1: The Belly

Let’s get the stomach out of the way once and for all.

A goldfish is pregnant will indeed look chubby, particularly around the belly. Keep in mind that this is not the same thing as being swollen in appearance. That could prove to be something else altogether.

There will be a slight-but-noticeable plumpness to them. While not a guarantee that the goldfish is about to lay some eggs, it is definitely the first significant sign you’re going to want to look for.

Also: As we mentioned before, it could be possible that you are overfeeding them, or that they are eating too much. Monitor your goldfish, and double check the directions for whatever you’re including in their diet. Don’t feel too bad. A lot of people overfeed their goldfish!

Symptom #2: Being Chased

During the breeding period, which can occur as early as in the first year, the female is going to become heavy with eggs. She will be looking for a place in which to lay them. We’ll discuss one of the biggest indicators of eggs you’re going to have, but for now, let’s focus on what the males in your tank are doing.

Male goldfish can be a real nuisance sometimes. When they sense that the female is filled with eggs, they’re going to look for a place to put their fertilization efforts to work. This biological need can be witnessed by simply observing the male and female interacting with each other.

When the female is ready to dump those eggs, they release a unique pheromone. This sends the definitive signal to the male, eager to fertilize. They will be excited to do this, seemingly, they will start chasing the female around the aquarium. They may even slap at the female with their fins.

While normal behavior, occurring during the spring and summer seasons, you should still keep an eye on it. If the male bothers the female for a significant amount of time, it can wreak havoc on their health. You may need to eventually move the female to a separate tank for a couple of days.

Symptom #3: Dropping Eggs

This is obviously one of the clearest examples of a goldfish about to lay eggs. It may be a little strange to imagine eggs literally spilling out of the goldfish, but this is indeed something that can happen sometimes.

If you really want to know for sure if the female has eggs, you can pick them up, and let them wriggle gently inside your hand. If they are in the best possible breeding shape possible, eggs may start falling out of them. This is even something breeders sometimes do, if the situation warrants such a move.

That is a big “if.” Squeezing your goldfish can also cause health issues and serious stress.

Pregnant Goldfish

How to Take Care of A Pregnant Goldfish?

One common myth we should do away with: Does it mean my goldfish is pregnant if they’re spending increasing amounts of time on the bottom of the aquarium?

No. In fact, if your goldfish is doing this with greater frequency, the odds are unfortunately quite high that they are sick. This is also true of a belly that appears swollen, as opposed to simply chubby.

Pay attention to appetite, as well. The goldfish is still going to have a healthy appetite. If your goldfish is not eating, it could be a sign that they are sick.

In terms of taking care of your goldfish, there are a number of things you can do. Check out this guide on breeding goldfish to see what you need to do, if you are planning to purse the avenue of breeding them for fun or profit. 

Remember that females may decide to eat their eggs after laying them. If you plan to breed goldfish, this is one of the most important considerations you are going to want to keep in mind.

If you don’t want baby goldfish, then make it a point to separate the male from the female for a couple of days. You can also simply see if nature will take its course.

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Betta Bubble Nest: Is It Normal Betta Behavior?

Credit: SiM0N

Do you see your male betta spending time with what appears to be a small cluster of bubbles, or something that looks foamy? If so, that is almost certainly good news. The male betta fish likes to blow small bubbles, using them to build little clusters that are called nests. These nests are established by your male betta for at a couple of notable reasons.

While both of those reasons are good, there are still several things about betta bubble nest you are going to want to keep in mind.

What Exactly Are Betta Bubble Fish Nests? What Do They Do?

Also known as the initial step in the betta fish mating process, your betta will start building these nests around the point in which they are old enough to breed. Simply put, these nests consist of gulping air, and the secreting the salvia near the surface. Done correctly, this creates a small bubble, or bit of foam.

The betta will do this repeatedly, building from their initial effort. Eventually, they will have a collection of these bubbles/foam. This would be the betta fish bubble nest, which some people also refer to as foam nest. The nest is designed to provide a oxygen-rich environment to hatch fry from eggs throughout the incubation period.

The bubble nests will also provide the fry (baby bettas) with essential oxygen. The idea is to get them to the point in which they will be able to get oxygen from the surface on their own.

Clearly, these betta fish nests are important. However, if you aren’t planning to breed the male betta anytime soon, your next thought will be “Should I worry if my solo betta fish is building a bubble nest?” You may worry that without a mate, the male betta fish will become frustrated that the bubble nest is going unused. 

Another question on your mind might be how often your male betta will build these nests. Is there such a thing as too often? Not often enough?

There is really nothing to worry about. Let’s take a closer look at how this behavior works out in the wild, or if you are perhaps learning how to breed betta fish.

Betta Fish Bubble Nests

How The Betta Bubble Nest Is Used In Breeding

Bettas are extremely territorial. This is particularly true in reference to other males. Many experts advise against having two or more male bettas n the same tank, and that is entirely due to how combative they can be with one another. 

If we’re talking about a betta in the wild, they will likely have to fight other males to establish said territory. Even after this is done, they may still have to defend their region.

Once a betta fish has become comfortable in its own territory, it will instinctively begin the mating process. This is where the building of the bubble nest starts. Whether we are referring to a male betta in the wild, or a male betta hanging out in your aquarium, this behavior is going to hold true.

However, if the male betta doesn’t find a mate, nothing is going to happen. In other words, if your male betta is alone, and starts building these nests, don’t think you need to go out and introduce a female betta fish. 

If nothing comes of these bubble nests, meaning, no one breeds, this isn’t going to bother your betta fish. From time to time, if the instinct to do so kicks in, they will simply begin and finish making a foam or bubble nest.

Credit: Sarah Brigham

How Often Do Male Betta Fish Make Bubble Nests?

This is not an easy question to answer. While there is nothing wrong with a betta fish making a bubble nest, meaning it is not indictive of any problematic behavior/mood, there is also no such thing as a standard amount. The answer is going to vary from one betta to the next.

Some bettas seemingly like to make these bubble nests all the time. Others will make them infrequently. There isn’t really a magic number to speak of. The same goes for the size of the nest. Some bettas like to build their nests very large. Others will build smaller bubble nest. It seems to be up to the whims of the betta fish in question.

Regardless of how often, or how large the nest is, the behavior is still an encouraging one. If your betta is building a bubble nest of any kind, it means two things:

  • Your betta feels very secure in their environment.
  • Your betta is in good overall health, which is naturally vital for the instinct to breed.

How To Help Your Betta Fish Build Bubble Nests

If you want to help your betta fish build its own bubble nests, for breeding purposes, or simply because you’d like to see them make one, the first thing you want to do is establish a feeling of security for your betta. This starts with giving them plenty of space, which also means a large aquarium. This extends to getting plants and other decorations for your betta to hide in and explore.

These conditions are ideal for compelling a betta to act on its instincts and start building a bubble nest. You may simply want your betta fish to exhibit this behavior as an indication that all is well. That is fine, although we will discuss shortly why it isn’t necessarily a problem if they aren’t.

You also want to be sure that you’re keeping the water clean, maintaining the best temperature (78 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit), avoiding filters that create strong currents, and making sure you have at least some floating plants inside your tank. If you plan to breed betta, which is an entirely larger universe of care and maintenance, these are the optimal conditions for the tank.

Planning to clean the bubble nests around the tank? No problem. You can try to scoop the bubble nest out with a small cup. The nest can then be placed easily enough back on the surface of the water when you’ve finished. 

We would like to add that if you do destroy the nest, this isn’t a big deal. The betta fish isn’t going to be upset. They will simply make another one when they feel like it.

Even if you’re trying to breed bettas, destroying the bubble nest will only slow down those plans a little.

male betta bubble nest

Help! My Betta Isn’t Making Bubble Nests At All?

In the event that your betta isn’t making bubble nests at all, the last thing you want to do is panic. In most situations, a betta that isn’t making a bubble nest is perfectly happy in every way.

A betta fish may simply be too old for nest-building. This is something many bettas transition towards as they age. It is also possible that a male betta on its own may just never get into the habit of construction. You may want to keep an eye on them, just in case they might be depressed or stressed out to some extent. This is unlikely.

At the same time, it could be due to not meeting the optimal betta fish tank conditions we highlighted above. Check these things, such as water quality and temperature, and see if your betta is as happy as can be.


With all of this information, you shouldn’t run into any issues with bettas and bubble nests. It all comes down to having the most content possible betta.

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.

Why and How Do Betta Fish Fight?

Betta Fish Fight

Captive bred betta fish, also known as betta splendens, have a notorious reputation for being considered fighting fish. Maybe you have seen them in their solitary bowls at the pet store, or have simply heard from others about their need for their own enclosure.

However, there are numerous reasons why betta fish fight. Like many other animals in the wild, betta fish are considered to be territorial. Which means, it is important for them to have their own area to create a place of their own.

If you plan on bringing one of these fish into your home, or are simply curious as to why betta fish fight, we will talk about some of these reasons below. 

Betta Fish Fight

A Bit Of Betta History

Betta fish are a species native to the Mekong River Basin, covering a significant portion of Southeast Asia, where they can be found in rice paddies, slow moving streams, and ponds. The areas they live in are usually shallow and thick with vegetation.

Known for first being bred in Thailand, they become popularized over 150 years ago due to their aggressive tendencies. They soon began being bred to have more aggression, bright colors and finnage. Captive bred betta fish are the descendants of these original betta fish.

Why Do Male Bettas Fight Each Other?

Male betta fish have one primary instinct and that is for survival. Everything they do, is in order to not only survive, but to ensure the continuance of the species. In the wild they would normally have a wide expanse of habitat to find where they want to set up their home.

If they were to encounter another male betta fish, they would be able to flare their fins and gills to intimidate the other betta fish. If this did descend into fighting, they would start nipping at each other until one of them gave up and swam away.

In captivity, this isn’t so easy. If they are in the same aquarium, there is limited ability to for the less dominant betta fish to escape out of harms way.

You will also see males fighting in order to protect their offspring. Male betta fish are in charge of protecting the nest and eggs, and if threatened fighting will ensue.

Do Female Bettas Fight Each Other?

Although female betta fish can be less aggressive, they can also still be territorial. You can put them in a group of at least 4-5 female betta fish, known as a sorority, where they will establish their own pecking order.

In order for this to be accomplished, it is imperative that there is enough room in the aquarium for less dominant bettas to get away when needed. However, even with this being done, some female betta fish will be too aggressive and territorial.

Why Do Male And Females Fight Each Other?

Female and male betta fish will also fight each other. They should only be housed together during mating season and then separated after. This is due to female betta fish being known to eat their eggs during spawning.

The male betta fish takes on the role of protecting the eggs, and will attack the female better if he feels like the eggs are being threatened. The males protect their offspring until hatching and will do what is necessary to ensure they hatch, this could include killing the female if necessary.

Do Bettas Fight Other Fish

Betta fish will in fact fight other fish. They will do so if the tank they are kept in is too small and either fish is unable to flee to another space when needed. The tank should be at least 10 gallons and full of numerous spaces to hide. If the other fish resembles another betta fish you can also expect that there will be fighting. They should be kept with fish who do not have bright colors and big fins.

You could also find fighting happens if both fish are aggressive. You should place a new fish in a breeding box first to see how they interact with one another. If either one ends up being too aggressive, it is safe to say that they will not do well in an enclosure.

How Long Do Betta Fish Fight?

Betta fish in the wild would normally on get into a fighting match for a limited amount of time. This could mean it ends immediately after they start nipping each other, or a few minutes. They will continue until one gives up and retreats.

However, in captivity this could last until one of the parties is seriously injured, or dies. This is due to being bred specifically to fight since they became popular in Thailand over a hundred years ago. Many bettas could also die due to the injuries resulting in infections.

How To Stop Betta Fish From Fighting

One of the best ways to stop betta fish from fighting is to keep them away from one another. If you are inexperienced with fish, you should look into which fish would be best to be housed in the same tank.

Ensure that you have a big enough tank that will give each fish in the tank plenty of space to have their own specified territory in the aquarium. This gives less dominant fish the ability to not only flee, but hide if needed.

If you plan on specifically keeping only betta fish in the same tank together look into how to keep same-sex and different sex bettas together without conflict.


Betta fish have a long history of being bred specifically to fight one another, descending back over a hundred years when they became popular in Thailand. We can still see this aggression in the captive bettas we see today.

Although there are many reasons why they will fight, there are also ways you can keep them with others bettas, as well as other fish. Each betta has their own personality and aggression level, so with knowledge and paying attention to how they interact with others, you can have successful cohabitation.

Richard Rowlands
Richard Rowlands

Hello fellow aquatics enthusiasts! My name is Richard Rowlands. I’m an aquarium keeper and enthusiast and have been for about 25 years or so. While I won’t claim to be the end-all expert on aquatic life, I will say that I know my way around a tank.