Goldfish Cloudy Eye (s): Causes, Symptoms & Treatments [with Pictures]

goldfish cloudy eye

Cloudy eye(s) in goldfish is not a disease but a condition caused by a wide variety of possible underlying problems. Unfortunately, goldfish can’t tell us what’s wrong, so it’s up to us goldfish parents to figure out the cause and find an appropriate treatment. 

This condition can be a serious symptom of bacterial infection and parasites – particularly when the cloudiness is on both eyes. Of course, when a single eye is infected or damaged, it can still indicate something is wrong.

Don’t panic! In our experience, many goldfish can successfully recover from a cloudy eye by following the proper treatment plan. 

What is Cloudy Eye(s) in Goldfish?

Usually, a cloudy eye involves the cornea (the transparent outer covering of the pupil) of the goldfish becoming inflamed or accumulating excessive tissue fluid behind one or both eyes [1], giving it a cloudy, opaque, or swollen appearance. 

In some cases, depending on the goldfish varieties and severity of the illness, the fish may show other physical symptoms and behavioral changes, such as bulging eyes, clamped fins, lethargy, buoyancy problems, etc. 

Fancy Goldfish with Protruding Eyes

Bubble Eye Goldfish has protruding eyes

Fancy goldfish refers to different varieties of goldfish (Carassius Auratus) that have been specifically bred to develop certain physical characteristics. 

Some have enhanced body colors or shapes, some come in flowy double tails, and some are known for their naturally protruding eyeballs. Of course, this is definitely not the Popeye disorder.

While goldfish varieties with protruding eyes, like telescope-eye goldfish (Red Moor Goldfish) and Bubble Eye Goldfish, can be a beautiful sight to behold, they are also more susceptible to developing cloudy eyes due to their large, delicate eyes are prone to cuts, and tears from tank decorations and tank mates.

What Causes Goldfish Cloudy Eye?

Based on years of experience, the cloudy eye goldfish can be due to physical trauma, bacterial infection, parasites, and water quality issues. 

Like Popeye, the cloudy eye disorder in goldfish may be unilateral (a single eye) or bilateral (both eyes).

When only one eye appears cloudy, it’s more likely associated with trauma rather than an infection and poor water quality. Luckily, in this case, the cloudy eye will eventually go away as it heals.

If both eyes are affected, some infections and/or water quality issues may be blamed. It’s critical to identify the underlying cause and take appropriate action, or it will cause the fish to die. 

Water Quality Issues

Poor water quality is one of the most common causes of goldfish illness and death. Goldfish are messy eaters and poopers. This means goldfish tanks can become very dirty rather quickly if not maintained properly. 

Among these important water parameters, ammonia levels and water temperature are mainly responsible for the cloudy eye in goldfish.

Ammonia Poisoning

Ammonia Poisoning in goldfish

As you may already know, ammonia poisoning usually occurs when you first set up a goldfish tank, but it can also happen in a “mature” aquarium due to the poor functioning of the nitrogen cycle, where ammonia formed from fish waste and uneaten food is converted by beneficial bacteria into nitrite, then nitrate, and finally back to air.

When ammonia gets too high due to overfeeding or overpopulation, your fish’s eyes may appear cloudy; however, this is less noticeable than the following signs.

Red or purple gills
Bloody patches or streaks on the body
Ragged or frayed fins
Laying at the bottom of the tank
Difficulty breathing
Loss of appetite
Uncycled aquarium
Chemically treated tap water
Increased fish byproducts
Overstocking & Overfeeding
Incorrect pH levels


It’s important to note that ammonia poisoning can be fatal to goldfish, so prompt action is critical. The first step is to test the ammonia level with a standard test kit. If the reading rises above 1 ppm, start treatment immediately by following these steps:

  1. Reduce ammonia levels: Perform a partial water change (50% or more) to dilute the toxic ammonia levels in the aquarium.
  2. Improve water quality: Add a high-quality aquarium water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals from tap water.
  3. Add bacteria: Add a bacteria supplement to the aquarium to establish a healthy biological filter.
  4. Increase aeration: Increase the aeration in the aquarium by adding an air stone or increasing the power of the existing air pump.

Gas Bubble Disease (GBD)

Gas Bubble Disease in goldfish

Gas Bubble Disease (GBD) in goldfish is a condition that results from gas supersaturation [2], leading to symptoms such as small bubbles trapped within a fish’s eye or tissues. 


In GBD, the most obvious sign is the presence of small bubbles behind or inside the eye, though they may also be found in other parts of the body, such as fin rays and operculum (gill openings).


  • Cracked or loosely connected pipe or filtration component.
  • Sudden changes in water temperature.
  • A sudden rise in pressure.
  • Abundant algae growth in ponds


To treat GBD, it is essential to determine the source of the excess gases. Check the pipes, filters, and water temperature. Never try to burst the bubbles, as this will often bring secondary bacterial infection.

Physical injury

As mentioned, some varieties with protruding eyes are vulnerable to abrasion that can cause localized inflammation. As a result, you may notice your goldfish’s eye turn cloudy or exophthalmic (popped out), depending on the level of the injury.

There is no treatment for traumatic eye injuries in fish. Preventative measures such as providing a safe environment with smooth surfaces, clean water, and silk aquarium plants are essentialial.

Bacterial Infection

Goldfish frequently develop cloudy eyes as a result of bacterial infections. If both eyes are cloudy and swollen, it’s likely that bacterial infections are present.

Virtually the root causes of bacterial infections are related to poor water conditions in the aquarium.

Streptococcus spp.

Although most aquarium bacterial infestations are Gram-negative, fish eye disorders are usually caused by Gram-positive bacteria, specifically Streptococcus species or related bacteria, including Lactococcus, Enterococcus, and Vagococcus [3]. 

Streptococcal (often shortened to Strep) outbreaks can cause high mortality rates (> 50%) over a period of 3 to 7 days. Unlike most common opportunistic fish bacteria, such as Aeromonas or Columnaris, Strep can be more aggressive and even fatal.


The noticeable sign of Strep disease is usually cloudy eyes (corneal opacity-whitish eyes). You may see a variety of other signs of illness as well.

  • Enlarged eyes (exophthalmos)
  • Hemorrhages in the eye, gills, or the base of the anal fin
  • Excess mucus
  • Difficulty swimming
  • Lethargy
  • Darkened coloration


For moderate Strep infections, a hospital tank with API® E.M. Erythromycin (Erythromycin Phosphate) will work. In severe cases, Seachem NeoPlex used in a medicated food mix is recommended. 

Aeromonas spp.

Goldfish and koi are the most popular cold-water fishes, which are susceptible to Viral Hemorrhagic Septicemia (VHS), a highly infectious and lethal virus caused by the Aeromonas species.

Aeromonas is a group of Gram-negative, facultative anaerobic bacteria, with A. salmonoid (commonly called Furunculosis) and A. hydrophila being among the best-known species. Both species are causative agents to be linked to causing hemorrhagic streaks or ulcers in the fins, tail, gills, and skin.


Hemorrhages may also be seen in the internal muscle and organ tissues. In some instances, goldfish may exhibit other signs such as exophthalmia (pop-eye), cloudy eyes, ascites (distended abdomen), discoloration, abnormal swimming behavior, and loss of appetite.


Given the fact that Aeromonas are Gram-negative, facultative anaerobic bacteria, treatment is currently limited to antibiotics. However, treating them in cold water (below 65°F) can be challenging as many antibiotics lose efficacy.

Seachem KanaPlex (Kanamycin), a Gram-negative antibiotic, mixed with fish food, has proved to be effective in treating Aeromonas infection.


Many types of protozoan parasites can also contribute to cloudy eyes in goldfish. They enter your fish pond or aquarium are the result of failure to quarantine new fish, plants, or other decorations.

The most common of these are:

Epistylis spp.

Epistylis in goldfish

Several Epistylis species (ciliated freshwater protozoan) are known to infect the skin, fins, and gills, resulting in irregular white spots on the fish’s eyes and other body parts. Epistylis in cold water fish is not common but may break out during the warmer months.


Epistylis infestation is often confused with ich due to similar white spots on the skin. However, it can be differentiated by the irregular shape and translucent coloration of the spots.


Maracyn 2 or Kanaplex medicated fish food can be effective. However, to kill the Epistylis on the fish’s eggs, the tank should be treated with Malachite green.

Eye Flukes (Diplostomum spathacaeum)

The eye fluke (Diplostomum spathacaeum) [4] is a microscopic parasite that can infect warm-water and cold-water fishes. Occasionally, tiny worms can be seen wriggling around in the goldfish’s eyes. These parasites can be tough to eradicate, as they often invade the fish’s eye lenses, where they are protected from the host’s immune system.


The infected goldfish often have enlarged and cloudy eyes.

As the parasite replicates and spreads, the goldfish will generally become blind in the infected eye, affecting its feeding and growth.


Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment currently available to treat eye flukes. 


Another serious but uncommon eye disorder that goldfish can suffer from is cataracts. This condition occurs when the lens of the eye becomes cloudy or opaque, reducing the vision of the fish. This can be caused by various factors, including genetics, injury, infection, or old age. There is also no known treatment or cure for goldfish cataracts.

In conclusion

Goldfish cloudy eye(s) can be caused by several factors and should always be addressed as soon as possible. Treatment options include antibiotics, parasite medications, and supportive care.

Unfortunately, cataracts and eye flukes are untreatable and may cause permanent vision loss.

For a successful treatment, always consult your aquatic veterinarian for the best recommendations. They can provide personalized advice for goldfish care and treatment when needed.

Good luck!

Article Sources:

  1. Aitchtuoh, Fischer. Treating Pop-Eye. Central Florida Aquarium Society
  2. Effects of Total Dissolved Gas Supersaturation in Fish of Different Sizes and Species. National Library of Medicine
  3. Streptococcal Infections of Fish. University of Florida
  4. Diplostomum spathacaeum. Wikivet

Red Spots On Goldfish: Symptoms, Causes & Treatments

Red Spots On Goldfish

Goldfish are one of the most common, friendly fish you can have in your aquarium. However, they are prone to conditions like red spots.

If you are wondering why there are red spots on goldfish and how to cure it, you’ve come to the right place. In this guide, we will discuss all about red spots, why it occurs, medication, and how to treat it. 

So without delaying any further, let’s dive right in! 

Why Does My Goldfish Have Red Spots?

Three main factors can contribute to your goldfish developing red spots: red pest disease (hemorrhagic septicemia), enteric redmouth (ERM) disease, and ammonia poisoning. We will discuss all of these in detail below.

#1 Reason: Goldfish Red Pest Disease

Red Spots On Goldfish Caused by Goldfish Red Pest Disease

Red Pest, or hemorrhagic septicemia, is an acute, highly fatal [1] internal bacterial disease that affects goldfish and other freshwater fish, causing them to develop red, bloody streaks on their gills, eyes, bodies, and the base of the fins. 

Most bacteria that cause infections in fresh and marine fish fall into one of two groups: gram-positive or gram-negative [2], named for how they respond to gram staining.[3] Due to their different type of outer structures (cell walls), gram-positive bacteria appear purple to blue, and gram-negative bacteria stain pink to red. 

The difference between these two types of bacteria is important when trying to determine which antibiotics to use, as some only treat gram-positive bacteria while others are effective against gram-negative bacteria. Gram-negative bacteria tend to be more resistant to antibiotics.[4]

Gram-negative bacteria (GNB) are among the most significant pathogens of fish, including genera: Pseudomonas, Aeromonas, Flavobacterium, Vibrio, and Yersinia. Aeromonas species are often associated with hemorrhagic septicemia (Red Pest), and Flavobacterium columnare is the biggest culprit of columnaris disease in aquarium fish.

Hemorrhagic septicemia (red pest) is also highly contagious [5], making it difficult to treat and often leading to mass die-offs in aquariums and ponds. However, this bacterial disease has not been reported to infect humans, so there is no need to worry about handling your fish.

Signs of Red Pest Disease in Goldfish

Hemorrhagic Septicemia in goldfish
Photo: RatteryTattery

As the name suggests, the most common symptom of red pest disease in goldfish is red spots or streaks (hemorrhages) on the body, gills, and fins. In addition, fish may also display:

  • Pop eyes,
  • Bloated (fluid-filled) belly
  • Loss of coloration
  • Abnormal swimming behavior

From my first-hand experience, it can be difficult to diagnose an internal bacterial infection in goldfish. In most cases, goldfish infected with Hemorrhagic septicemia may show no signs of illness in its early stages, but the disease can still spread, leading to contagion. During the middle stage, you may notice scattered white spots or dots on the fish’s body and fins. However, if the disease is at a more advanced stage, your goldfish will develop more and more red streaks or spots on their bodies and fins. 

In some severe cases, the entire fish body may become covered in red sores and ulcers. Red pest is often fatal; even with treatment, the mortality rate can be as high as 80-100%.

Goldfish Red Pest Disease Causes

Interestingly, most bacteria that cause red pests or other diseases in fish, whether they belong to gram-positive or gram-negative, are actually normal inhabitants in the fish tank or pond and don’t usually cause problems in healthy fish.

These opportunistic pathogens take advantage and cause disease only when the fish’s immune system is not functioning properly. So, red pest disease is often seen as a secondary infection, following another underlying condition that has weakened the fish’s immune system.

Virtually all fish diseases can be traced to some form of stress factor, which weakens their immune system. The most common stressors that can lead to the fish disease include:

  • Poor water quality
  • Incorrect water chemistry
  • Inadequate filtration
  • Overcrowding
  • Poor diet
  • Injuries
  • Transportation stress
  • Leaving your aquarium lights on 24/7
  • Aggression from other tank mates

In addition, a goldfish with a weak immune system may be more prone to bacterial growth, further exacerbating the problem.

How Do You Treat Red Pest in Goldfish?

Goldfish Red Pest Disease

Since Hemorrhagic septicemia (red pest) is a very serious internal fish disease, external medications are not going to work, the only way to save your fish is through antibiotic treatment.

Author note: External remedies may help if the disease is in its early stages, but I’d recommend still using a broad-spectrum antibiotic instead.

It’s important to realize that antibiotics do not cure a fish. Instead, they merely suppress the growth of bacteria populations in your goldfish long enough for the fish’s immune system to recover and naturally eliminate bacteria. 

Making and Feeding Medicated Feed

The most effective way to treat red pest disease or other bacterial infections is to add antibiotics to the fish’s food. Generally, you can make your own medicated feeds by adding antibiotics to dry flake or making gelatin-based food. I highly favor the latter simply because it sinks rapidly.

  • Prepare 3 ounces (85 g) unflavored dry gelatin (like Knox gelatin)
  • Grind 1 ounce (28 g) of dry commercial fish food (pellets or flake) to a powder (similar size of the dry gelatin)
  • Mix the fish food and the gelatin powder together in a bowl
  • Add 1/2 ounce (1 tablespoon) of the antibiotic powder to the mixture. Avoid using stronger doses if the case isn’t severe, as their side effects can still cause harm. Stir well to ensure that the antibiotic powder is evenly distributed in the mixture.
  • Heat 2 cups of water to near boiling, then pour over 2 to 3 ounces of the mixture above while stirring constantly. The gelatin will dissolve, and the mixture will form a gel. You may add more hot water if the mixture appears too dry, while if it appears too wet, just add a small amount of dry mixture (typically not necessary). 
  • Spread the gelled mixture onto a silicone baking sheet or wax paper with even thickness. Allow the gel to cool and solidify in a refrigerator.
  • Once it’s cooled, you can cut the gel into small squares, put them into a plastic bag, and store them in the freezer until you’re ready to use them.

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Feed at least twice daily for at least ten days, offering the amount all your fish will completely consume in less than 3-5 minutes.

I would also recommend starving your fish a little before feeding them, and this will help encourage them to eat the medicated food.

Be aware that you should never use homemade medicated fish food more than ten days old. Freshness is key to success.

External Bath Treatment

An antibiotic feeding treatment can be accompanied by external bath and dip treatments using sulfa or nitrofurans drugs.

Nitrofurans are commonly used to treat ornamental fish, including nitrofurantoin, nitrofurazone, furanace, and furazolidone. The well-known drugs in this class are Seachem Focus and Hikari BiFuran

Three things to remember when using these drugs include:

  1. They are most effective against superficial bacterial skin infections because they do not penetrate the skin well.[6] Remove the fish from the bath immediately if you see any redness.
  2. Nitrofurans can be degraded by light, so the fish tank should be covered during the treatment.
  3. Nitrofurans are more toxic to fish than sulfa drugs.

Sulfonamides, or “sulfa drugs,” are the other broad-spectrum antibiotics used to treat bacterial infections. The better-known drugs with this ingredient include SeaChem SulfaPlex (69%), API Triple Sulfa, and Mardel Maracyn Plus. However, they are not as effective as they once were due to antibiotic abuse.

To treat a goldfish with sulfa or nitrofurans drugs bath, consider using five times the recommended dosage of the nitrofurans or ten times the recommended dosage of the sulfa drugs for only one hour every day. 

Continue bathing for at least three days after the symptoms have disappeared to ensure the infection does not recur.

If you have any questions, please consult a qualified aquarium veterinarian. As with any medication, use it as directed. Do not over-medicate, which can lead to health problems for your fish.

#2 Reason: Enteric Redmouth (ERM) Disease in Goldfish

Enteric Redmouth (ERM) Disease in Goldfish

Quite often, you’ll see red spots just on the goldfish’s mouth. This enteric redmouth disease is one of the particular viral hemorrhagic septicemia (VHS) caused by the bacterium Yersinia ruckeri.[7] 

As we’ve already mentioned in an earlier section, Yersinia ruckeri is a gram-negative bacteria. The bacterium enters the fish through the secondary gill lamellae, where it multiplies and quickly invades the fish’s blood and internal organs. Of course, it’s a serious infectious disease that will kill the goldfish if it’s not treated in time.

Signs of Redmouth Disease In Goldfish

Signs of Redmouth Disease In Goldfish

As its name suggests, this enteric redmouth disease can cause subcutaneous hemorrhages in the mouth, including gums, throat, and gums. The major clinic signs included:

  • Reddening of the mouth, opercula
  • Popeye (exophthalmia)
  • Discoloration
  • Inflammation of the jaws and palate
  • Blood red blotches at the base of fins
  • Thick yellow fluid in the intestine

Redmouth Disease Treatment

Treatment of redmouth disease is no different than treating any other bacterial infection in goldfish. You can use the same treatment for the red pest disease we’ve already mentioned.

#3 Reason: Ammonia Poisoning

Ammonia Poisoning vs Hemorrhagic septicemia (red pest)

The last common reason your goldfish have red spots might be ammonia poisoning, one of the biggest fish killers. Total ammonia in a fish tank is comprised of NH3 and NH4+. The former is extremely toxic to fish whereas the latter is not. However, as the water temperature or pH increases, the NH4+ shifts to NH3, toxic form.

Symptoms of Ammonia Poisoning in Goldfish

The high level of ammonia in the water makes it difficult for the fish to eliminate ammonia from their bodies [8], which will eventually cause stress, damage to the brain, gill, internal organs, and lead to death.

The signs of ammonia poisoning in goldfish include:

  • Gasping at the surface of the water for breath
  • Red or purple gills
  • Lethargy
  • Loss of appetite
  • Bloody patches on the body

As to the red gills, people often confuse it with the clinical sign of hemorrhagic septicemia (red pest). In fact, it’s quite easy to distinguish between the two. 

Red spots on goldfish gills caused by ammonia poisoning are internal, and they usually take on a deep red or purple color, not brownish red patches like those from hemorrhagic septicemia. Also, they don’t develop on the scales of the fish.


If you read that the ammonia level in your fish tank is above 1 ppm, you need to take the following emergency measures to lower it.

  • Do a 50% water change, and ensure the temperature of new and old water is the same.
  • Use reverse osmosis (RO) water to lower the pH
  • If the condition of your fish is still critical, you should use Amquel or Prime to remove ammonia.
  • For fish exposed to high ammonia levels, you need to quarantine them in a hospital tank and treat them with antibiotics.

Final Thoughts 

Well, now that you are up to date with all the information about red pest disease in goldfish, we can end our guide here. 

Remember that the most common cause for this disease is unsanitary tank conditions. So, make it a point to purchase a water testing kit that will help you determine the water quality of your tank. 

Furthermore, ensure that you keep the tank clean at all times and maintain a healthy diet for your goldfish to thrive. And that’s all we have for you today; do take good care of your goldfish. 

Article Sources:

  1. Transcription profiles of skin and head kidney from goldfish suffering hemorrhagic septicemia with an emphasis on the TLR signaling pathway [NCBI]
  2. Use of Antibiotics in Ornamental Fish Aquaculture [UF]
  3. What is Gram Staining? [SERC]
  4. Molecular mechanisms of membrane targeting antibiotics [Sciencedirect]
  5. Fast Facts about Viral Hemorrhagic Septicemia [CFSPH]
  6. Evaluation of nitrofurazone baths in the treatment of bacterial infections of Sparus aurata and Oreochromis mossambicus [Sciencedirect]
  7. Yersinia ruckeri, the causative agent of enteric redmouth disease in fish [VeterinaryResearch]
  8. Aquarium Water Quality: Nitrogen Cycle []
  9. How To Make Medicated Feed [Hikariusa]
  10. 10.3.6. Red Blotches [aquariumscience]

Pregnant Goldfish Care: How to Tell If a Goldfish is Pregnant

Pregnant Goldfish Care

Is your goldfish pregnant? Can you expect them to lay some eggs in the not-too-distant future?


While noticeable weight gain on a goldfish is one of the biggest signs a goldfish is pregnant (more on that later), it isn’t a guarantee. There are in fact several potential indicators that your goldfish is expecting.

We’re going to cover the biggest tell-tale symptoms of a pregnant goldfish. We can also cover some basic care tips to help you. These tips can be helpful for both those who are not anticipating a pregnant goldfish, as well as those who are actively trying to breed them.

How to Tell If a Goldfish is Pregnant?

First of all, it is important to make a distinction here: While we are using the term pregnant goldfish to describe goldfish who are potentially about to lay some eggs, they are not actually pregnant in the technical sense. This is because the animals that can actually get pregnant are those which partake in live births.

Goldfish don’t. However, they can become full of unfertilized eggs. What happens after that can depend on a variety of different factors. It starts with knowing exactly what to look for in goldfish that are on the verge of breeding.

At the end of the day, that chubbiness could simply be due to the fact that your goldfish is overweight!

Symptom #1: The Belly

Let’s get the stomach out of the way once and for all.

A goldfish is pregnant will indeed look chubby, particularly around the belly. Keep in mind that this is not the same thing as being swollen in appearance. That could prove to be something else altogether.

There will be a slight-but-noticeable plumpness to them. While not a guarantee that the goldfish is about to lay some eggs, it is definitely the first significant sign you’re going to want to look for.

Also: As we mentioned before, it could be possible that you are overfeeding them, or that they are eating too much. Monitor your goldfish, and double check the directions for whatever you’re including in their diet. Don’t feel too bad. A lot of people overfeed their goldfish!

Symptom #2: Being Chased

During the breeding period, which can occur as early as in the first year, the female is going to become heavy with eggs. She will be looking for a place in which to lay them. We’ll discuss one of the biggest indicators of eggs you’re going to have, but for now, let’s focus on what the males in your tank are doing.

Male goldfish can be a real nuisance sometimes. When they sense that the female is filled with eggs, they’re going to look for a place to put their fertilization efforts to work. This biological need can be witnessed by simply observing the male and female interacting with each other.

When the female is ready to dump those eggs, they release a unique pheromone. This sends the definitive signal to the male, eager to fertilize. They will be excited to do this, seemingly, they will start chasing the female around the aquarium. They may even slap at the female with their fins.

While normal behavior, occurring during the spring and summer seasons, you should still keep an eye on it. If the male bothers the female for a significant amount of time, it can wreak havoc on their health. You may need to eventually move the female to a separate tank for a couple of days.

Symptom #3: Dropping Eggs

This is obviously one of the clearest examples of a goldfish about to lay eggs. It may be a little strange to imagine eggs literally spilling out of the goldfish, but this is indeed something that can happen sometimes.

If you really want to know for sure if the female has eggs, you can pick them up, and let them wriggle gently inside your hand. If they are in the best possible breeding shape possible, eggs may start falling out of them. This is even something breeders sometimes do, if the situation warrants such a move.

That is a big “if.” Squeezing your goldfish can also cause health issues and serious stress.

Pregnant Goldfish

How to Take Care of A Pregnant Goldfish?

One common myth we should do away with: Does it mean my goldfish is pregnant if they’re spending increasing amounts of time on the bottom of the aquarium?

No. In fact, if your goldfish is doing this with greater frequency, the odds are unfortunately quite high that they are sick. This is also true of a belly that appears swollen, as opposed to simply chubby.

Pay attention to appetite, as well. The goldfish is still going to have a healthy appetite. If your goldfish is not eating, it could be a sign that they are sick.

In terms of taking care of your goldfish, there are a number of things you can do. Check out this guide on breeding goldfish to see what you need to do, if you are planning to purse the avenue of breeding them for fun or profit. 

Remember that females may decide to eat their eggs after laying them. If you plan to breed goldfish, this is one of the most important considerations you are going to want to keep in mind.

If you don’t want baby goldfish, then make it a point to separate the male from the female for a couple of days. You can also simply see if nature will take its course.